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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

By ferry or floatplane, four enchanting coastal getaways from Vancouver

By Nikkita Nair New York Times

Canada’s British Columbia is studded with 17,000 miles of coastline and 40,000 islands dispersed across its waters, many of them enchanting destinations on their own. Vancouver, the largest city of the province, serves as a gateway to the region, which is home to a host of marine life like Steller sea lions, sea otters and Pacific octopuses.

Here are four coastal destinations, a relatively short journey from Vancouver, perfect for a day trip or weekend getaway. Whether you travel via ferry or floatplane, the journey offers a panoramic view of the North Shore mountains and open Pacific waters.

Bowen Island

A 20-minute ferry ride northwest from Vancouver, Bowen Island has hiking trails, beach coves and boutiques. A part of the Howe Sound UNESCO Biosphere Region, the island is recognized for its range of ecosystems, from coastal areas to forests and wetlands, which support species including the western red cedar and mule deer.

Hop on an e-bike to navigate the 19-square-mile island or rent a kayak to explore the surrounding waters where humpback whales and orcas are known to make an appearance. Hike Mount Gardner, the island’s highest peak, to be rewarded with expansive views of the Georgia Strait and Burrard Inlet. Alternatively, climb one of the trails at Crippen Regional Park.

As many stores close by 4 p.m., head to Artisan Square, the main commercial district and a 15-minute moderately uphill walk from the ferry terminal, early. There, you can explore boutiques like Sangre de Fruta, known for its organic bath and beauty products made on the island. Stop for a delicious treat at Cacao West Chocolatier, recognized for its Bowen-made truffles.

Closer to the ferry terminal at Snug Cove, visitors can partake in gin tasting at Copper Spirit Distillery, which also boasts a menu of more than 50 original cocktails rotated seasonally. Visitors can sample a variety of drinks with ingredients such as fir tips and seasonal black currants sourced from local farms.

The island has a variety of European-inspired dining options including small plates at Barcelona Tapas and Wine Bar, Italian stone-oven pizza at Tuscany Restaurant and French-inspired bread at Artisan Eats Cafe.

If you decide to stay overnight, Kitoki Inn (starting at 585 Canadian dollars, or about $430 a night), has three minimalist cabins surrounded by majestic cedar and fir trees. Included in your stay are two private 90-minute sessions at the property’s Japanese onsen-inspired bathhouse equipped with a UV-treated hot tub and refreshing hydrotherapy shower.

Or unplug at one of Nectar Yoga Retreat’s Scandinavian-inspired onyx-colored cottages (starting at 199 Canadian dollars a night, two-night minimum), where you wake up to the earthy scent of maple and alder trees. Each stay includes a daily grounding yoga and guided meditation session at the property’s geodesic dome.

Getting there: Ferries depart daily almost hourly starting at 5:50 a.m. from Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay Terminal, and almost hourly from Bowen Island’s Snug Cove with the final ferry leaving about 10 p.m. No reservations, so allocate more time during peak periods, especially if traveling with a car, and look for updates on the BC Ferries website. Tickets start at 12 Canadian dollars per person and 33 Canadian dollars for a standard vehicle round trip.

Salt Spring Island

Spread along the Salish sea between Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia are the Gulf Islands. The largest of them is Salt Spring, which spans approximately 70 square miles.

If you are traveling by foot, the island has a reliable transit system to get around the main areas. Or you can rent an e-bike from Outspokin Bike Shop or a scooter from Salt Spring Car & Scooter Rentals. Experience the waters along the Trincomali Channel by renting a kayak or joining a whale-watching trip organized by Salt Spring Adventures and observe the J Pod, a group of resident orcas.

The island’s newest winery is Vivezza, where you can stop by for a tasting. Paul Troop, Vivezza’s founder, said that the island’s unique weather patterns, with warm winters and long, dry summers, “result in slow ripening” and “wines with pronounced fruit flavors and aromas with balancing acids.”

Kutatás Wines is known for its chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Zweigelt. The founders, Mira Tusz and Daniel Dragert, aim to grow and produce terroir-driven wines, through continual experimentation and research. All wine is produced on the island using “sustainable practices like dry farming and no irrigation,” which allows for maximal concentration of flavor, Tusz said. Sample a selection of five wines or enjoy a bottle on the patio overlooking the vines during your visit.

Salt Spring is also known for its warm bakeries and gourmet foods. Stop at Francis Bread, for fresh sourdough and pastries. Next, take the winding island road to Salt Spring Cheese Co. and observe the production facility on a self-guided tour. Sample a variety of goat cheese produced on-site, such as the creamy garlic chevre or the juliette, a rich ripened Camembert-style cheese. Before leaving the island, grab some locally made preserves and spreads at Salt Spring Kitchen Co.

Stay the night at one of the oceanfront guesthouses at Lightwater Cove (starting at 420 Canadian dollars a night), waking up to the crisp scent of fir and expansive water views. The property’s 31-acre garden, including a glass greenhouse for fresh greens all year, is a highlight. Add a thermal mineral pool session where you can unwind in an outdoor heated saltwater pool, ocean-facing wood barrel sauna and hot tub.

Getting there: Ferries depart about twice daily from Vancouver’s Tsawwassen ferry terminal, with the first ferry leaving around 10 a.m. Returning ferries leave around 7 p.m. on Sundays and Mondays, and around 4 p.m. the other days. Reservations are recommended. Tickets start at 29 Canadian dollars per individual and additional 85 Canadian dollars for a standard vehicle round trip.

Alternatively, hop on a floatplane with Harbour Air, departing multiple times a day between both destinations, with the earliest flights leaving Vancouver around 8 a.m. and the latest flights leaving Salt Spring around 6 p.m. Tickets start at 103 Canadian dollars one way.

Galiano Island

About 31 miles south of Vancouver, Galiano is the driest of the Gulf Islands; the added sun and lower moisture contribute to the island’s distinct ecosystem. The calm island roads make it perfect for exploring on an e-bike or moped that can be rented at Galiano Adventures.

The island is known for its innovative dining options incorporating ingredients from the region. At Pilgrimme, a restaurant offering seasonal menus, diners can expect to find locally foraged bull kelp on their plates year-round, whether in broths and sauces or seasonings and salt. Jesse McCleery, a co-owner of Pilgrimme, said the restaurant was “born out of a desire to be closer to nature away from the city’s hustle.”

Across the island, Lola offers a fusion of Southeast Asian cuisine and cooking inspired by the Gulf Islands, with menu items incorporating produce grown in-house, like eggplants and peppers.

The Galiano Conservancy Association offers regular drop-in volunteer days where visitors can join restoration projects to remove invasive species or maintain trails on the island.

Hike one of the many trails at Mount Galiano or the Bluffs, or at Dionisio Point Provincial Park, on the northwestern tip of the island, which is only accessible by water. Galiano is a major flight path for migratory birds including eagles, great blue herons, owls and hummingbirds. Stroll through trails at Bellhouse Provincial Park overlooking Active Pass, a good spot to look for marine life and birdwatch. Alternatively, get on the water with Gulf Island Kayaking to explore the surrounding Trincomali Channel and wave-sculpted sandstone lining the shores of Galiano, observing minks and seals.

Retreat for the night at Bodega Ridge (starting at 345 Canadian dollars a night, two-night minimum), a collection of seven rustic log cabins situated on a 22-acre property beautifully surrounded by arbutus trees and wildflowers.

If you prefer waterfront views, stay at Bodega Cove (starting at 295 Canadian dollars a night, two-night minimum), Bodega Ridge’s sister property. It’s a 10-minute walk away with beachfront access.

Getting there: Ferries depart about four times a day from Vancouver’s Tsawwassen ferry terminal, with the first ferry leaving around 10 a.m. Returning ferries leave around 5 p.m. on Saturdays, 6 p.m. on Tuesdays to Thursdays, 8 p.m. on Mondays and Sundays, with a 9 p.m. ferry on Fridays. Reservations are recommended. Tickets start at 29 Canadian dollars per individual and additional 85 Canadian dollars for a standard vehicle round trip.

Seair flies floatplanes to the island, departing twice daily to and from both destinations, with the earliest flights leaving Vancouver around 7 a.m. and the latest leaving Galiano around 5 p.m. Tickets start at 179 Canadian dollars one way.

Southern Sunshine Coast

The Sunshine Coast extends 111 miles from its southern tip at Howe Sound to the northern edge near Pender Harbor. While it is part of British Columbia’s mainland, the region is only accessible by air or water because of the rugged mountainous terrain and inlets, giving it an island-like feel.

If traveling by foot, purchase a day pass during the 40-minute ferry ride and navigate the stretch with the region’s trusted transit system.

Upon arriving in Langdale on the southern Sunshine Coast, head along coastal roads to Porpoise Bay Provincial Park to start your day with a tour led by Talaysay, an Indigenous-owned tour company. Navigating through forested trails, the Talking Trees tour educates visitors on how the Sechelt Coast Salish & Squamish people have been harnessing the land for food, medicine and technology for generations.

Complement your experience with a visit to Tems Swiya museum, a First Nations museum owned and operated by the Sechelt Coast Salish people. Explore a collection of artifacts like cedar baskets and stone tools, and hear stories illustrating the region’s Indigenous history and traditions.

For art enthusiasts, the Purple Banner Tour is a self-guided art crawl in which visitors follow purple banners displayed outside creative spaces to explore studios, galleries and shops featuring artists and makers at work. It is a great way to source locally made pottery, glasswork, sculpture, textiles and paintings while learning about the area’s vibrant artistic spirit.

Learn about the region’s ecosystem at the Nicholas Sonntag Tidepools Aquarium including the diverse marine life of Howe Sound, like starfish, urchins and other intertidal species. Close by, you can also sign up for a tour with Shaggy Jack to learn about identifying and harvesting wild mushrooms.

The heart of the Sunshine Coast is the multiday 111-mile-long Sunshine Coast Trail, the longest hut-to-hut experience in Canada, taking adventure enthusiasts through old-growth forests and mountain views. On a day trip, visitors can hike up a section of the trail to get a sense of the experience.

Settle in for the night at Takahashi Gardens Waterfront Retreat (starting at 189 Canadian dollars a night, two-night minimum), tucked in a secluded cove on Porpoise Bay. Wake up to open views of the Sechelt Inlet and follow one of the property’s many trails leading you directly to the water.

Getting there: Ferries depart daily almost every other hour starting at 6 a.m. from Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay Terminal, and almost every other hour from the Sunshine Coast’s Langdale terminal with the final ferry leaving at about 9 p.m. Reservations are recommended Tickets start at 16 Canadian dollars per person and additional 54 Canadian dollars for a standard vehicle one way.

Alternatively, hop on a floatplane with Harbour Air, departing multiple times a day between Vancouver and Sechelt on the Sunshine Coast, with the earliest flights leaving Vancouver around 8 a.m. and latest flights leaving Sechelt around 6 p.m. Tickets start at 91 Canadian dollars one way.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.