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Let this fennel, celery and pear salad be a crisp foil to a rich meal

Fennel, Celery and Pear Salad is a fresh and crisp counterpoint to the rich dishes that are served during Thanksgiving.  (Tom McCorkle/For the Washington Post)
By Ellie Krieger Washington Post

Food and lifestyle content creator Chadwick Boyd knew from about the age of 8 that Thanksgiving was his time to shine. His passion for cooking was clear back then when, as he helped his grandmother prepare the holiday meal, he began to see it as “the quintessential day to do what I love in a grander way.” Now, nearly five decades later, he has perfected the art of this feast.

As his friend, I got a coveted spot at his Thanksgiving table last year, and it was even better than the magazine spread-worthy meal I had envisioned. Part of what made it more than picture-perfect was the relaxed warmth and genuine joy in the room.

But, oh, the food! There were two turkeys, one prepared with traditional seasonings and one with a soy-orange lacquered skin; baskets of warm biscuits Boyd is known for; sage-seasoned stuffing; celery root and mashed potato casserole; whipped sweet potatoes with pecan topping (my contribution); and a mouthwatering mushroom gravy to ladle over everything.

But despite all the luxurious, rich dishes on the table, or maybe because of them, the one that enchanted me the most was the salad – a fresh, crisp counterpoint of shaved fennel, celery and pear, in a honey-balsamic vinaigrette. When I told Chadwick how much I enjoyed it, he graciously shared the recipe.

This salad both contrasts and highlights the other dishes on the Thanksgiving table. The cool crunch of raw fennel and celery – sliced paper-thin – acts as a palate cleanser, giving your taste buds a break from the array of creamy, rich dishes. This respite allows you to experience their pleasure more fully when you dig into them again.

That evening, the celery in the salad was acting as a bridge, echoing the celery root in the mash on the table. The pear in the salad was doing double duty, too, bringing fresh juicy contrast while playing up the sweet elements of the meal.

With sweetness from both honey and white balsamic vinegar, plus a fruity unctuousness of the extra-virgin olive oil, the vinaigrette pulls everything together for a zippy, fresh, crunchy salad.

Served garnished with feathery fennel fronds, this salad makes an elegant addition to the holiday spread, one that’s not only enticing on its own but as part of a larger spread.

Fennel, Celery and Pear Salad

This elegant salad, featuring crisp and refreshing fennel and celery, and juicy, sweet pears, presents an ideal counterpoint to hearty winter stews or rich holiday fare. For an eye-catching presentation, use a mandoline to create very thin slices of fennel, celery and pear.

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar (see Substitutions)

2 tablespoons minced shallot

2 teaspoons honey

¼ teaspoon fine salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly cracked or ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1 large fennel bulb (12 ounces), with stalks and fronds

4 large celery ribs, trimmed and very thinly sliced

1 firm, ripe Bosc pear, halved, cored and very thinly sliced

Flaky sea salt

In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, shallot, honey, salt and pepper until well combined.

Cut the stalks from the fennel bulb. Remove any fronds, reserving them for garnish, and trim any thin branches off the stalks. Use a mandoline or sharp knife to very thinly slice the stalks, then transfer to a large bowl.

Trim the bottom of the fennel bulb, then cut it in half vertically and cut out the core out of each half (discard or compost the core). Use a mandoline or sharp knife to thinly slice the bulb crosswise, and transfer to the bowl with the sliced fennel stalks.

Add the pear to the bowl, pour the dressing on top and gently toss to evenly coat. Season to taste with flaky salt and more pepper, as desired. Transfer to a serving bowl or large platter, scatter the reserved fennel fronds on top and serve.

Substitutions: White balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar plus 2 teaspoons honey. Vegan? Use maple syrup or agave instead of honey. Not a fan of fennel? Use a sturdy winter salad green, such as chicory, radicchio or endive.

Make ahead: The fennel can be sliced and refrigerated in a covered container for up to one day.

Storage: Refrigerate the dressing in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before using; you may need to briefly re-whisk to bring it back together.

Total time: 15 mins

Yields: Six to eight servings (makes about 8 cups)

Adapted by cookbook author and registered dietitian nutritionist Ellie Krieger from food and lifestyle content creator Chadwick Boyd.