For Chef Sin’, Island Style Food & BBQ is a return to his roots

For Nicholas DeCaro starting over meant returning to his roots.

In November, following the stunning success of the food truck he launched during the pandemic, the chef opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant on North Division at the site of the old Kalico Kitchen. His eatery is less than a mile away from where his parents’ DeCaro’s Italian restaurant once stood.

However, becoming a chef wasn’t on his radar while growing up.

“I worked in Mom and Dad’s restaurant and have that entrepreneurial spirit,” he said. “But I never thought I’d be in the food industry again.”

Instead, he channeled that spirit into a successful real estate career and thrived in the business world. Then his life took a downward turn that eventually spiraled into addiction and jail time.

“I got hit by a car and had back surgery in 2008,” he said.

In addition, he lost several close family members in a short time, plunging him into a depression exacerbated by his dependence on pain pills.

Jail was his wake-up call. DeCaro knew he needed to do better for his son. He researched recidivism rates and discovered that pursuing an education lowered those rates.

“I enrolled at Spokane Falls Community College before I got out,” he said.

He continued his education at Whitworth University, where he rediscovered his entrepreneurial spirit and developed a business plan for his Island Style Food & BBQ food truck.

When crafting his menu, DeCaro found inspiration in the food his mother and grandmother prepared, but added his spin to the recipes.

“My mom was born in the Philippines and raised in Guam,” he said. “When I was growing up, my friends would come over and eat all this stuff. They said every day was like Thanksgiving at my house except the food was different.”

In April 2020, he launched the food truck with his cousin and a friend.

“We had lines down the block,” he said. “Opening during the pandemic was a blessing in disguise because restaurants were closed.”

He bought out his business partners and eventually found a brick-and-mortar site on North Division Street.

“I spent 11 months remodeling,” DeCaro said.

The remodel included adding what he calls “Islander” tables.

“It’s bigger seating, wider booths and sturdier chairs,” he said.

DeCaro expanded the menu but kept food truck favorites and still uses the truck for catering and events.

The two most popular dishes at Island Style Food & BBQ are Island Style noodles and Kalbi Ribs.

The ribs are marinated for three days in house-made marinade and then barbecued. Their smoky tang pairs perfectly with Asian cucumber salad and tropical macaroni salad.

Island Style Noodles with tofu or thinly sliced Black Angus beef features fresh veggies and Yakisoba noodles in a sweet and savory sauce. It, too, is served with the cucumber and mac salads.

His tropical version of macaroni salad can convert even those who usually shun the island staple. It’s based on his grandmother’s recipe and includes pineapple, apples and finely minced onion, giving it a fresh, bright flavor.

The menu includes plenty of gluten-free options.

A visit to the sauce bar is a must. Condiments include DeCaro’s Pika Pineapple sauce (available for purchase) and house-made Finadene in regular and spicy varieties.

Made with gluten-free soy sauce and a mixture of seasonings, Finadene sauce is perfect for dipping lumpia (deep-fried Filipino spring rolls) or drizzling over red rice or barbecued meats.

“I love to create stuff,” he said. “I’m a sauce guy.”

He’s working on FDA approval to market additional sauces, including Smackin’ Sesame and Tropic Thunder, as well as some seasoning blends.

Fans of island food will be delighted to find Calamansi lemonade available. Calamansi is a small citrus fruit from the Philippines that has the sweet notes of mandarin orange with a tart bite of lime.

Dessert choices include an item perfect for the Lilac City – Ube ice cream. It’s a Filipino ice cream prepared using ube (purple yam) as the main ingredient.

Next up – patio seating with a theme.

“I’ll feature Japanese barbecue, Filipino skewers and beer. I’m calling it ‘B.S.’ for beer and skewers,” DeCaro said, grinning.

He hopes to have the patio open by late summer.

In the culinary community, DeCaro is known as Chef Sin’.

“Sin’ is short for sindalu which means warrior in CHamoru,” he explained. “Our motto is ‘Island style is a lifestyle of building community through the universal language of food.’ ”

Cooking is how he honors and celebrates his Guamanian, Filipino and CHamoru roots.

“I am fusion,” DeCaro said.

Contact Cindy Hval at dchval@juno.com.