Community Cookbook: Labor Day, a holiday of transition and good food like teriyaki-glazed salmon, pineapple upside-down cake

Labor Day reminds me of New Year’s but with fewer fireworks, less noise and the absence of a crystal ball dropping in Times Square. Like New Year’s, Labor Day is a time of transition. Originally a tribute to American workers, the “workmen’s holiday” has morphed into a celebration (or mourning, perhaps) of the end of summer, amid the onset of substantial change in season and routine, especially, if school is involved.

Labor Day is a day for late summer fun, celebration and good food, as we anticipate the coming changes and events. Here are several recipes to help with the good food part.

Salmon is a nutrient-dense food that most of us would benefit from eating a lot more of. It’s one of the easiest fish to cook. Broiled Salmon with Teriyaki Glaze, one of the recipes offered today, is a good example of this. Salmon come in several varieties, there’s coho, sockeye, pink, chum and the king of them all: king. Each variety has its special qualities. I’ve found that sockeye salmon is an excellent choice for broiling, and nicely balanced between quality and price.

There are two things about this recipe that I find difficult to do. The first is paying the high price for salmon. Salmon aren’t as plentiful these days and that results in higher retail prices, although, I have seen some good sales lately. The second difficulty is that I often forget to put frozen fish in the refrigerator to thaw overnight for use the next day. At those times, I have to resort to quick-thaw methods, but slow thawing in the refrigerator is the better way to go. The rest of the preparation is so quick and easy, you’ll hardly have time to blink. Until I test-drove this recipe recently, it’d been a long time since I last broiled salmon, and I’d forgotten how quick, easy, and utterly delicious it is.

Imi-Crab Louie is an unusual salad. Imitation crab has limitations and is best when supported by plenty of other tasty ingredients. Imi-Crab Louie does just that. It’s a grand salad built on a grand scale.

Pineapple upside-down cake is making a comeback and I’m here to help. The one-layer cake won the Dole company’s pineapple recipe contest in the 1920s and has been popular ever since. Pineapple upside-down cake gets its name from being built from the top up. Through a clever flipping trick after baking, the cake’s bottom becomes its very festive, scrumptious top. Pineapple upside-down cake is an awesome dessert, visually, and in the eating. I’d even stand on my head for a slice of upside-down cake.

Labor Day reminds me also of family fishing trips to Westport, rodeos, parades, picnics and barbecues. And always good food.

Broiled Salmon With Teriyaki Glaze

Salmon and teriyaki sauce fit together like peas in a peapod, cotton and candy, Martin and Lewis. I’d be hard-pressed to think of a more harmonious flavor duo. The key to successfully broiling salmon is to remove it from the oven before it’s cooked through, as it will continue to cook a little after removal (referred to as after-cooking). The salmon skin can be removed easily before or after cooking. It’s perfectly edible, healthy, and delicious. The skin helps to hold the delicate salmon together throughout the handling and cooking.

Ingredients

2 (5 to 8 ounces each) salmon fillets or steaks (any salmon variety, with or without skin)

Salt

Black pepper

Teriyaki glaze (see notes below)

Directions

If the salmon has skin, remove any scales that may be present. Remove any pin bones. Rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towels. Place, skin-side down, in a flat container. Salt and pepper the salmon. Spread a light coat of teriyaki glaze over the tops and sides and refrigerate for 1-2 hours. When ready, preheat the oven broiler. Line a 13-by-9-inch shallow baking pan with aluminum foil for easy cleanup, and preheat the pan. Place the salmon, skin-side down, in the baking pan with a little space between each. Place on an oven rack 6-8 inches below the broiling element. Broil until the salmon is almost fully cooked, about 5 minutes per inch of thickness (be careful not to overcook the salmon; it will continue to cook a little after coming out of the oven). The salmon is done when it flakes easily with a fork. Drizzle a little warmed teriyaki glaze on the finished salmon, if preferred, or serve it at the table. Plate the salmon (the skin may stick to the foil) and garnish with minced flat-leaf parsley or mint, and minced green onion tops or chives.

Notes: Sockeye salmon is a good choice for broiling. Kikkoman makes an excellent teriyaki baste and glaze. Teriyaki sauce is strong-flavored and can overpower the salmon’s delicate flavor, so use it judiciously. Steamed rice pairs very nicely with the salmon and teriyaki glaze.

Yield: Two main-dish servings

Imi-Crab Louie

Imitation crab (surimi) is an ingenious food product. The better brands are marvelous (see the notes below). They’re not as marvelous as real crab, of course. Crab is currently running at $209.99 for 10 pounds (recent price at Spokane’s Costco for 4 to 6 cooked, whole Dungeness crabs). The imitation stuff looks pretty good at around $6 a pound. It’s an all-edible product without shells or cleaning to contend with. This dish is inspired by a huge Crab Louie salad my uncle Alf, made during a Labor Day family fishing trip to Westport, Washington, years ago. It was a wonderful family trip, and the fishing for salmon and bottom fish was outstanding. Fresh crab was plentiful and insanely inexpensive back then. This large salad will feed a crowd.

Ingredients

½ cup Thousand Island salad dressing

4 teaspoons chili sauce

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

½ teaspoon chili powder

12 ounces imitation crab, flaked or chunked (about 3 cups)

5 cups, torn into large, bite-sized pieces, romaine hearts

1 large Roma tomato, seeds and juice removed, sliced into bite-sized pieces

1 cup, peeled and sliced avocado, 2-inch pieces of blanched asparagus, or peeled and coarsely chopped cucumber

⅓-½ cup thick Parmesan cheese strips

⅓ cup, thinly sliced radishes

Directions

Make the dressing by combining the first six ingredients (through chili powder) in a small bowl or measuring cup. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour to allow the flavors to blend. Add the remaining ingredients (slice and add the avocado just before serving so it doesn’t brown) to a large serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate. Combine the dressing and salad just before serving.

Notes: For an impressive presentation, layer the solid ingredients by type with the lettuce on the bottom. Lemon wedges and a peeled hard-boiled egg, thickly sliced or cut into wedges, can be used as garnishes. Bibb or Iceburg lettuce can also be used. Louis Kemp Crab Delights, Trans Ocean Crab Classic, and Kanimi are top-rated imitation crab brands. Keep the salad cold.

Yield: About 9 cups

Pineapple

Upside-Down Cake

Who doesn’t like pineapple upside-down cake? It’s visually impressive, decadently succulent, and delicious! The cake is easy to make with boxed cake mix and canned pineapple. This recipe is inspired by an older Betty Crocker version. It’s guaranteed to get compliments from all who taste it.

Ingredients

1 (20-ounce) can pineapple slices in juice

¼-½ cup water, as needed

1 (15.25-ounce) box Betty Crocker Super Moist yellow cake mix

Vegetable oil and eggs according to box directions

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

½ cup packed brown sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

8 maraschino cherries

Directions

Drain the pineapple, reserving the juice. Prepare the pineapple mixture by combining the reserved juice with enough water to make 1 cup. Prepare the cake batter according to box directions, substituting the pineapple mixture for the water and including the vanilla extract. Pour the butter or margarine into a 13-by-9-inch baking pan, being sure to coat the entire bottom of the pan. Evenly sprinkle the brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg on top. Blot 8 pineapple slices with paper towels and place in a single layer in the pan with a little space between each. Tuck a cherry, if used, in the center of each slice. Place the pan on the middle-low rack of an oven preheated to 350 degrees. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45-55 minutes. Remove from the oven and run a butter knife along the sides of the pan. Let rest 5-10 minutes. Place an appropriately sized platter or shallow baking pan upside down on top of the pan. Carefully but quickly flip the pan and platter or pan over holding them firmly in place. Let everything rest for 10 minutes, then remove the top pan (this allows the bottom coating to drip onto the cake. Let the cake cool 20-30 minutes before serving. Store any leftover cake, covered, in the refrigerator.

Notes: The cake can be served warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Covered, it will last 3-4 days in the refrigerator. It can be tightly wrapped and frozen for up to 3 months. The extra pineapple slices are cook’s booty.

Yield: About 12 servings

Dick Sellers is a freelance writer. Contact him at dickskitchencorner@outlook.com.