What to know about vinho verde, Portugal’s effervescent bargain wine

To beat summer heat, wine lovers often turn to vinho verde, a light, refreshing wine from northern Portugal that has enjoyed a boomlet the past few years. One sign of its popularity – several local wineries are producing their own “verde-style” wines with the hallmarks of sharp acidity and slight carbonation. (Ankida Ridge and King Family Vineyards in Virginia are two examples.)

But what exactly is this “green wine”? Here are five things to know about this popular summer sip.

1. The name: There’s no agreed on explanation for the name, which apparently evolved around the 17th century when the wines were first exported to Britain. It could be a reference to the “green” underripe flavors of tart apples and lime blossom in the very fresh, raw wine. It could also refer to the lush green landscape of the Minho region in northwestern Portugal, where the Atlantic Ocean’s maritime influence produces a climate and terroir starkly different from the parched Mediterranean lands in the Algarve to the south.

The Portuguese pronunciation is VEEN-yo VER-da, with the last syllable all but swallowed. If, like most people, you pronounce it VEE-no VERD-ee, the Portuguese winemakers will not complain. They will smile politely, pocket your cash and be happy you are enjoying their wine.

Green wine comes in white, pink and red. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.) Very little red is produced and typically does not reach the U.S. market. Both the whites and rosés are notable for tart acidity (those green flavors) and a slight spritz of carbonation, which combine to make them refreshing, especially in hot weather. They are intended to be enjoyed, not aged. In fact, many are not even vintage-dated because they’re not expected to last long enough for the year to be relevant. So drink up!

2. The region and the grapes: Vinho verde is Portugal’s largest demarcated wine region, or appellation (though the administrative region is called Minho). There are nine subzones which generally do not appear on wine labels but may become increasingly important as winemakers explore different expressions of vinho verde. The main grapes are alvarinho (familiar to us as albariño) and loureiro, a crisp white often compared to riesling. There are several other varieties that are even harder to pronounce and noteworthy only if you are keeping track of varieties you’ve tasted. Alvarinho dominates the blends in the north (where the Minho borders Spain’s Rias Baixas region), and loureiro is more prominent further south.

3. That spritz: Vinho verde has been exported at least since the 17th century. Back in the day, the wine’s signature spritz resulted from a little bit of sugar remaining as the wines were rushed into bottle before fermentation had finished. Today, the bubbles are added artificially by carbonation before bottling. The level of carbonation is up to the producer – some vinho verde can be quite fizzy, while others gently tickle the palate.

4. You can use it in cocktails: Vinho verde’s fizz and still relatively low price make it an ideal foil for your summer mixology efforts. An ice cube, slice of lime and a splash of gin make a nice spritzer. It can also be a great base for sangria.

5. New styles are evolving: While we think of vinho verde as a simple, enjoyable starter wine for a summer repast, some winemakers are producing more serious versions. These are usually made from a single variety (such as alvarinho or loureiro) and labeled with the vintage. Some producers are bottling single-vineyard wines to highlight a site’s granite or schist soils.

“The wines are changing and moving forward with an international, incredibly bright and pure style,” says Eugénio Jardim, the US brand ambassador for Wines of Portugal. He cited Anselmo Mendes and Quinta da Soalheiro as pioneers of this new style.

“This is a region in flux, with the quality of wines soaring in recent years,” Jardim told me in a phone interview. “This is not a one-note region.”

Great value

Lab Vinho Verde Rosé NV

Portugal, $11

Here’s a good, simple vinho verde rosé, slightly spritzy, not particularly sweet, and refreshing with tart strawberry and watermelon flavors. Vegan friendly. Alcohol by volume: 11%. Bottle weight: 480 grams (Light).

Imported by Tri-Vin Imports.

Encostas do Lima Vinho Verde NV

Portugal, $11

This is labeled “medium dry,” but don’t let that deter you. Any sweetness is barely perceptible against the racy acidity and flavors and peaches, nectarines and limes. The blend is loureiro and trajadura. This winery makes two terroir-themed wines labeled Granite and Schist, reflecting the dominant soils of the region. They are worth seeking out. ABV: 12%. BW: 430 grams (Light).

Broadbent Vinho Verde NV

Portugal, $12

Importer Bartholomew Broadbent offers a classic vinho verde, with flavors of lemon and lime and a somewhat vigorous carbonation. This tasty refresher has the added virtue of being widely available. There is also a rosé. As of last year, they come in single-serving cans as well, ideal for picnics. ABV: 9%. BW: 505 grams (Average).

João Portugal Ramos Loureiro Vinho Verde 2021

Portugal, $14

This is an example of the new style of vinho verde – made from a single grape variety and vintage-dated. Loaded with flavors of citrus and green apple, and aromas of white flowers, it resembles some of the entrancing white wines of northwestern Spain. Bring on the shellfish for this beauty.

ABV: 12%. BW: 420 grams (Light).

Prices are approximate. For availability, check Wine.com, Wine-searcher.com and the websites and social media feeds of the wineries, importers or distributors.