The magic of Mount Assiniboine brings diverse crowd to Canadian Rockies
When my friend Ken set eyes on the tea cakes at Assiniboine Lodge deep in the Canadian Rockies, he started drooling.
“Oh my god,” he said, unable to contain his carbohydrate lust, “we need lots of THAT.”
Sure, the cake was nice, but I was laser-focused on the icy-cold adult beverages. I ordered the first of three beers and for the next two hours, life was very good for both of us.
You don’t expect to get cake and beer during a week-long backpacking trip. After a punishing two-day journey, we had stepped into the Assiniboine Lodge afternoon tea service, where dirt-baggers like us could get a taste of luxury lodge life.
Our group, made up of four former Spokane residents, was part of the hiking crowd who had hoofed it to revel in the beauty of Mount Assiniboine, known as “The Matterhorn of the Rockies.” Another contingent – those who pay to play – had flown in to see the sights and be pampered at Assiniboine Lodge.
Both methods of getting to this very special place have their merits.
By foot: Our group started from Sunshine Village ski area in Alberta and traveled approximately 18 miles to stay at nearby Lake Magog Campground in Assiniboine (B.C.) Provincial Park. At Lake Magog, we camped three days at the base of Mount Assiniboine doing day hikes in the region, then traveled about 18 miles south to a car we had left at the Mount Shark trailhead.
You have to love a hike that starts with a gondola ride. During summer months, Sunshine operates its gondola on weekends ($39 Canadian), cutting off roughly three miles and 2,000 vertical feet of climbing.
The first-day hike out of Sunshine is gorgeous. For about 6.5 miles, you stay mostly above treeline as you hike south, taking in fields of wildflowers and 360-degree views from the spine of the Canadian Rockies.
On day two, about 14 miles in, we caught our first good look at Assiniboine. At 11,870 feet, Mount Assiniboine has that special something that all great peaks possess: sheer rock faces, hanging glaciers and tumbling waterfalls. Once you set eyes on it, the mountain captures your attention and simply won’t let you look away.
By air: It takes two days to walk in, but only 15 minutes by helicopter for guests to arrive at Assiniboine Lodge. It’s a comfortable, historic place (built in 1928) with excellent food service, bathrooms, showers, a sauna and guided hiking that can accommodate up to 30 people per night in five rooms and seven luxury cabins. The lodge is open for summer hiking and winter backcountry skiing.
In summer, visitors only need to bring their clothing. The lodge takes care of all food needs with three meals prepared on premises. The afternoon tea also is included for lodge visitors, and is open to campers in the area.
If you can’t afford the lodge (up to $410 a night per person), there are cheaper fly-in options.
The Assiniboine Lodge helicopter service also acts as a taxi for anyone wanting access to the provincial park.
Many tent campers at Lake Magog had flown in from Canmore ($175 Canadian) or Mount Shark ($155 Canadian) and were day-hiking the area. Others had flown in one way and were hiking out to a car. Still others were staying at the nearby dormitory-style Naiset Huts ($25 a person per night) and self-catering their visits.
Good vibes: You certainly won’t find solitude at Mount Assiniboine, yet the diverse crowd that journeys to the mountain seems to get along perfectly.
Our informal backpacking group has been doing annual trips together since 1993. Generally, we choose destinations that offer solitude, sometimes going for days without seeing other hikers.
It was not so on this trip. We saw Japanese tour groups, captains of industry, families with dogs, fit yoga moms, hardcore backpackers, spry senior citizens, angsty teenagers and everyone seemed to mesh into a gregarious mix there to explore, appreciate and enjoy. It felt a little like a good-vibes music festival filled with peace and love.
At the busy, 29-site Lake Magog Campground, we shared food and drink with other hikers. Maps, gear and routes were discussed amid impromptu card games and conversations. At the lodge, friendly guests said hello and the staff welcomed the backpacking crowd for visits and tours.
Maybe it was the magic of Mount Assiniboine. You just can’t have a bad time around such beauty.
John Nelson is an outdoors writer based in Seattle. Follow his blog at skizer.org.