‘Chowderland’ New England dishes, sides sure to delight

Most of the recipes in “Chowderland” originate from New England.

There’s Boston-style Creamy Clam, Connecticut Shoreline Semi-Clear Clam, Milky Maine Steamer, Manhattan-style Clam, Classic Rhode Island Clear Clam, (Martha’s) Vineyard Chicken and Corn – the list goes on.

The West Coast is represented in a Northwest Salmon Chowder with Leeks and Peas. Plus, there are a few recipes for summer chowders using in-season ingredients commonly found in backyard gardens or farmers markets from coast to coast.

Each recipe is topped with an anecdote and includes suggested pairings for sides, salads and desserts specially created (or compiled) by author Brooke Dojny to complement the hearty stews. (Black pepper brownies, anyone?)

A former catering director for Martha Stewart and author of several books on New England fare, Dojny lives in Maine, where she writes for the Portland Press Herald.

Here are a couple of recipes from her new book (Storey Publishing, $14.95).

Northwest Salmon Chowder with Leeks and Peas

From “Chowderland” by Brooke Dojny

4 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, about 1 cup

2 tablespoons butter, plus more if needed

1 medium onion, chopped

1 large leek, cleaned, cut in half lengthwise, and thinly sliced (white and pale green parts only)

1 cup bottled clam juice or seafood broth

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 cups water

1 pound red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled and diced, about 3 cups

3/4 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

1 cup heavy cream

1 1/4 pounds salmon, skin and bones removed, cut into 3-inch chunks

1 cup fresh or frozen peas

1/2 cup snipped chives or thinly sliced scallions

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped dill, plus sprigs for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper

Cook the bacon in a large heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until crisp and the fat is rendered, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the cooked bits with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and reserve. You should have 2 tablespoons of fat in the pot; if there is too much, pour some off, or if there is too little make up the difference with additional butter.

Add the butter to the pot and cook the onion and leek over medium heat until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the clam juice, wine, water, potatoes and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, until the potatoes are almost tender, about 12 minutes.

Add the cream and salmon and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, uncovered, until the fish is opaque, about 5 minutes. The fish will break apart as it cooks.

Add the peas, chives and dill, and cook for 5 minutes if using fresh peas or about 2 minutes for frozen peas. Stir in reserved bacon bits and season with pepper and additional salt, if needed. Let the chowder sit at cool room temperature for at least an hour or refrigerate overnight.

Reheat over very low heat. Use a slotted spoon to ladle salmon, potatoes and peas into shallow bowls, then ladle the broth over top. Garnish with dill sprigs and serve.

Note: Bottled clam juice is usually shelved with the canned fish in the supermarket; seafood broth in cans or shelf-stable cartons – or in jars as concentrate – can usually be found with the canned chicken and beef broth.

If making the chowder a day ahead, add the peas and herbs when reheating, since they will lose color upon standing.

Double Corn Summer Chowder

From “Chowderland” by Brooke Dojny

6 ears corn

5 cups water

1 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

4 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1 cup)

2 tablespoons butter, plus more if needed

1 large onion, chopped

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups half-and-half

12 ounces all-purpose potatoes, peeled and diced (about 2 1/4 cups)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon sugar

Freshly ground black pepper

Cut the kernels off the corn and reserve them. (You should have 4 to 5 cups.) Place the corncobs in a large pot, cover with water, add the salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, for 30 minutes. Leave the cobs in broth until ready to use.

Cook the bacon in a large heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until crisp and the fat is rendered, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the cooked bits with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and reserve. You should have 2 tablespoons of fat in the pot; if there is too much, pour some off, or if there is too little make up the difference with additional butter.

Add the butter to the pot and cook the onion over medium heat until it begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the flour and whisk until thick and bubbly, about 3 minutes. Measure out 4 cups of the corn broth and add to the pot along with the half-and-half. Whisk over medium-high heat until the mixture comes to a simmer.

Add the reserved corn kernels, potatoes, thyme and sugar, and cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the corn and potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in the reserved bacon bits and season with pepper and additional salt, if needed. Let the chowder sit at cool room temperature for at least an hour or, better yet, refrigerate overnight.

Reheat over low heat, ladle into bowls and serve.