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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Do It Yourself: Frame, then patch drywall holes

Gene Austin McClatchy-Tribune

Q. I had four old electric lights and old wiring removed from my garage, leaving four 18-inch circular holes in the drywall ceiling. What’s the best way to repair these?

A. The best bet to fix large holes or major damage to drywall is to frame the opening with wood to provide a secure surface for attaching the large drywall patch.

Carefully make a rectangular or square opening for the patch. In a ceiling, a convenient way to do this is to extend the opening to the inside of the nearest joist at each end. In wall repairs, extend the opening to the nearest studs.

You need to be very careful in cutting, since both ceilings and walls often contain water pipes or wiring that should not be disturbed unless an opening is being made to repair them.

When you have cut the opening, screw 2-by-4 cleats to the sides of the joists or studs; this will give you a fastening surface on two sides of the opening.

You can frame the other two sides of the opening with 2-by-4s that connect at right angles to joists or studs, leaving wood framing all around the opening. The latter parts of the frame can be toenailed or attached with right-angle metal fasteners; half the width of these frames should extend under the existing drywall, and the other half should protrude to give a fastening surface for the patch.

Next, measure the framed opening carefully and cut the repair panel from drywall of the same thickness as the existing drywall; in most cases, the drywall will be 1/2-inch thick.

Attach the patch to the frame with drywall screws. Secure all loose drywall edges to the new framing, driving the screw so the flat heads are just under the surface of the drywall. Space the screws six inches apart.

Seal the joints with self-adhesive fiberglass joint tape and apply a coat of setting-type joint compound (sold in bags). Let the joint compound set up for a few minutes, then smooth with a damp sponge; when it dries, sand off any remaining ridges or rough spots.

Follow with two more coats of compound, extending each an inch or two beyond the first. Sand the finished patch as smooth as possible, then prime the patch and repaint.

Q. We had tinted window film installed on several windows about 30 years ago. The film is now cracked and looks almost baked on, and we want to remove it. Is that possible?

A. Gila Films, a leading manufacturer of window films, recommends its brand-name solution for removing old film, but you can also make a homemade solution from eight ounces of water, four ounces of ammonia and one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid. Put the solution in a spray bottle.

You will also need a razor-blade scraper with handle, which can be bought at most paint stores, and some plastic sheets (large trash bags work well if split open into sheets). Protect floors with plastic drop cloths. Saturate the film with the ammonia solution and tape plastic over it to help retard evaporation. Leave the plastic in place overnight if possible, or remove in a couple of hours and spray again, then re-cover for another two hours.

Start scraping at a corner of the film while applying more solution, and try to peel off the plastic in pieces. Old film is likely to need a lot of scraping and spraying. When the film is removed, wash the window with soap and water.

For more information on window films, visit www.gilafilms.com.

Q. One of several double-pane windows that I had installed 15 years ago has developed moisture between the two panes of glass. Is there some way I can fix this?

A. I don’t know any practical way to remove the moisture from a double-pane window and repair the leaking seal, which is what causes the moisture to get into the cavity between the panes.

I have seen instructions that purport to show how to do this, but they are complicated and, in my opinion, appear unlikely to succeed.

Many manufactures, however, began offering long-term warranties covering seal failures years ago and will often replace the windows or defective sashes free. So if you know who made or installed the windows, contact them and explain the problem, and there is a good chance you can get a replacement.

Most warranties do not cover labor, though, so if you can’t do the installation yourself you will have to pay someone to do it.

Questions and comments should be e-mailed to Gene Austin at gaus17@aol.com. Send regular mail to 1730 Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell, PA 19422.