Novelty Hill in class by itself

Sharp-eyed readers of Washington wine labels will notice quite a few listing Stillwater Creek as the vineyard. First planted just eight years ago, Stillwater Creek has quickly gained a reputation for growing a wide range of both white and red grapes, most importantly an impressive array of Bordeaux varietals.

The vineyard is in an area known as the Royal Slope, just north of the Wahluke Slope AVA. During its first couple of years, the vineyard owners (the Alberg family) planted 141 out of 245 potential acres, mostly to cabernet sauvignon and merlot, but also to significant quantities of syrah and chardonnay. Smaller amounts of roussanne, sauvignon blanc, semillon, viognier, cab franc, grenache, malbec, mourvèdre, petit verdot and sangiovese are also in the ground.

Given its higher latitude and elevation (above 1,500 feet) this qualifies as one of Washington’s cooler sites, which means longer hang time, lower alcohol levels, and, it seems, more flavor in the grapes.

Stillwater Creek is also one of the vineyards closest to Spokane, and at least one Spokane winery gives the vineyard rave reviews.

Arbor Crest owner/winemaker Kristina van Loben Sels tells me she not only uses, she loves Stillwater fruit. “I have been getting fruit (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah) from them since 2002,” she writes in an e-mail. “The cab goes into my Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley blend and often times into the Dionysus. The merlot goes into my Merlot Columbia Valley blend. The syrah goes into my Syrah blend which is 50/50 Stillwater and Conner Lee.”

Among the other vintners who have purchased these grapes are Betz Family, Januik, JM Cellars, Merry Cellars, Three Rivers, Saviah and Novelty Hill.

Novelty Hill Winery, whose sleek, modern, well-appointed production facility and tasting room shares space (and winemaking) with Mike Januik’s winery in Woodinville, is owned by the same family that owns Stillwater Creek. The winery made its first wines in 2000, the same year that the vineyard was planted.

The newest Novelty Hill releases – white wines from 2006 and reds from the exceptional 2005 vintage – are brilliant across the entire spectrum. The rare trifecta – a great vineyard, an experienced and sensitive winemaker in Mike Januik, and a price-to-value ratio that is among the best in the country – sets Novelty Hill apart.

Production has increased with each vintage. The winery’s least expensive Columbia Valley bottlings use a mix of estate-grown fruit grapes purchased from a variety of vineyards, notably Alder Ridge and Weinbau. The vineyard designates, showcasing Stillwater Creek fruit, are the show-stoppers.

Novelty Hill 2005 Columbia Valley Merlot; $22. Sweet, tangy red berry fruit, fresh acids, ripe tannins and toasty oak.

Novelty Hill 2005 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon; $25. A fine-tuned Bordeaux blend, dark and tannic, tight and compact, but fully ripe and balanced nicely.

Novelty Hill 2005 Columbia Valley Syrah; $22. Maybe best of the three Columbia valley wines. Dark and tight and spicy, with pure blackberry and black cherry fruits, grace notes of black olive, and a finish tasting of coffee grounds and licorice.

Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc; $18. This is a racy, bracing wine offering tropical and stone fruit flavors, nicely matched to toasty flavors of almonds and biscuits. Elegant, detailed and ripe.

Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Roussanne; $22. The winery’s first Roussanne – a white wine grape that has its origins in France’s Rhone valley – offers mouth-watering flavors of melon, white peach, pineapple and still more exotic tropical fruits.

Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier; $20. This exquisite viognier sends up an almost indefinable mix of flower petals, perfume, citrus rind and stone fruits; beautifully defined, racy and sharp.

Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay; $22. This is that rare American chardonnay that not only can stand alone, but that makes you reach quickly for that second glass. It does not require food to “fill in” what’s missing. Nothing is missing. The fruit is a perfect mix of apple, pear, passion fruit and green banana, laced with cinnamon and sweet baking spices.

Novelty Hill 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese; $25. Small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and syrah have been added, perhaps to amp up the color. This has the toast and strawberry tang of young sangio, light and lively and hinting at green pepper and herb.

Novelty Hill 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah; $28. The estate syrah shows a toastier nose and richer fruit than the Columbia Valley bottling. Along with cassis, black cherry and blackberry fruit are powerful layers of toasted nuts, butterscotch and coffee.

Novelty Hill 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon; $28. As with all of the Novelty Hill Stillwater Creek releases, this is powerful yet restrained, and it beautifully expresses the delicate and nuanced aspects of cabernet sauvignon with – yes – the herbal side of life in full force. Sweet blackberry fruit is surrounded by leaf and earth, leading into ripe but stiff tannins and just the right elements of mocha toast.