Elegant and rustic
Hot springs in the Northwest seem to be like some people. They can be primitive and rough around the edges or smooth, sophisticated and elegant. But, unlike people you may have met, you probably haven’t experienced a hot springs that you didn’t like. You will like Chico Hot Springs, found in Montana’s Paradise Valley.
Chico fits on the upper end of a scale between primitive and elegant. It has the elegant but rustic feel of a Western ranch. There are two pools. Both are open-air, where visitors can soak and take in views of the mountains. The smaller pool is about 104 degrees and the larger, swimming-size pool is 96 degrees.
But Chico has some other surprises to offer. Driving in Paradise Valley south toward Yellowstone National Park, ranches and cabins built along the Yellowstone River add to the scenic beauty of the Montana countryside. You would expect a ma-and-pa-type of hot springs resort as your destination. That was nearly the case 31 years ago when the owners, Mike and Eve Art, bought the resort. Now, the staff averages 140 employees year-round.
Years ago the owners realized that a hot springs 30 miles north of Yellowstone Park required more than a hot-water soak to entice travelers to stop. They decided that excellent food was the answer, and Art hired a well-known chef from a resort in Jackson Hole, Wyo. Over the years word got out that the food was outstanding. In rural, isolated ranch country this kind of menu would not be expected with selections like fennel breadsticks, artichoke with curry aioli, and duck l’orange. But the chef did not ignore the local Western hearty appetites and also offered rack of lamb, steaks, smoked trout and seafood. In fact, the food is so outstanding that a hard-bound recipe book collected from the Chico Hot Spring Resort kitchen, “A Montana Table,” written by Seabring Davis, is available for sale.
In the earlier days (1920s), a five-acre garden along with a greenhouse heated and irrigated with geothermal water provided most of the vegetables that were served. Of course, because of Chico’s isolated location, raising the food on site was a necessity. In 1996 another geothermal heated greenhouse was built. Fresh herbs, flowers and vegetables are produced on site all year-round. The demanding chefs insist on the freshness and flavors for their recipes. Guests are encouraged to walk though the garden and greenhouse and enjoy the scents and the colors.
Sightings of celebrities are not usually on your wish list when you plan a trip to a hot spring resort, but the chance of spotting a famous person at Chico Hot Springs is better than you would think. They say that celebrities don’t like to be mobbed and asked for autographs when they are vacationing. In Montana most everyone is so laid back they leave famous people to themselves. Movie stars go to this public resort because they are left alone. But it still does seem unlikely in the so called “middle-of-nowhere” hotel to see such famous people that actually call it their hangout. Dennis Quaid, Peter Fonda, Margot Kidder, Harrison Ford, Meg Ryan and Jeff Bridges are a few that may be found there. Most of us won’t admit to being name droppers, but wouldn’t it be fun to come home from a weekend in Montana and brag that, oh, we did see Harrison Ford at Chico Hot Springs.
Most owners of developed hot springs brag about the curative properties of the hot springs water. In the early 19th century many people used the warm, mineralized water to treat their illnesses. They also drank the water believing it would help cure them. Chico Hot Springs went a step further during 1916 through 1925. The female owner closed the saloon that served “spirituous liquors,” hired a physician and built a 20-room hospital wing on to the hotel. The reputation of the doctor and the resort brought many more people to the resort. The doctor eventually retired and the Depression almost closed Chico in the 1930s. The hospital wing was torn down. But a succession of dedicated, hardworking owners kept the doors open until the Arts bought the facility in 1973.
Since then Chico Hot Springs Lodge has been very successful. If you are on your way to Yellowstone Park, this resort is appealing for at least a stop and a break. It was listed in 1999 on the National Register of Historic Places. The public is invited to wander the grounds. Make a point to check out the saloon as well as, of course, the hot spring pools. You will certainly be tempted to stay for a while.
Lodging at Chico ranges from historic guest rooms in the main lodge to a very fancy five-bedroom log home. There is a new wing with luxury suites where the old hospital was torn down. Lodging prices range from $49 in the historic main lodge (the bath is down the hall) to $225 for the rooms, cabins and deluxe suites. Pets are welcome. During the peak season reservations for rooms and dining are recommended. There is a large selection of accommodations at the resort listed on the Web site. Some guests use the hot springs resort as a base for exploring Yellowstone National Park, which is 30 miles farther south.