Shoreline seclusion

Now that the summer tourists are gone, Lake Pend Oreille is basically abandoned, except for the migratory waterfowl, wildlife and fish. It’s the perfect time to visit. Without intrusion from speedboats or personal watercraft and protected from strong winds by the mountains, you can enjoy a leisurely walk or mountain bike ride along the southwest shores of this unique lake.

The bright yellow tamaracks stand among the evergreens on the south side of Idlewilde Bay and, if you are lucky, as I was recently, you might see a mountain goat among them. Drop a line off the docks, and unlike me, you might catch a nice rainbow trout.

Although no remains are visible today, this was a bustling area in 1866, when it was named Pen d’Oreille City by Zenas F. Moody, becoming the second white settlement in North Idaho. The name was changed to Steamboat Landing in the 1880s, when the settlement featured a hotel, general store, billiard saloon and six log cabins. Steamboats took goldseekers and freight from here to points along the lake and all the way up the Clark Fork River to the Cabinet Gorge rapids for connection with horseback or stagecoach lines to mining camps. The Pony Express traveled from Buttonhook Bay up the lake and the Clark Fork River to Montana, after its route from Walla Walla was established.

The route is made up of Farragut State Park trails 49 through 72.

Access: From Interstate 90 and U.S. Highway 95, go north on 95 for 18.3 miles, turn right on Highway 54, then follow the signs to Farragut State Park. Stop at park headquarters for a trail map and more information and pay the parking fee. Turn right just past headquarters on South Road and drive approximately 21/2 miles to the boat launch area. The trail begins just west of the launch.

Length: Approximately three miles.

Elevation: Elevation is mostly level, with an average of 2,100 feet.

Use: Light in the fall.

Trail condition: Good trail with some overgrowth.

Difficulty: Easy.

Restrictions: No motorized vehicles, $4 parking fee in park. Pets must be on a leash, and the park says, “If they poop, you must scoop!”

What to see: Wildlife, great fall scenery and a spot in history.

Special features: Camping in Farragut State Park, boating and fishing in the lake. There is a Geocache (the treasure hunt game, using clues from the Web site, www.geocaching.com) near along the shoreline. Coin-operated binoculars are featured just east of the boat launch at the Sunrise Day Use Area.

Preparation: Trail guide available at the Farragut State Park Headquarters and Visitor Center (208) 683-2425. The ranger office suggests leaving your trip schedule with a responsible person. Detailed topographical maps are available for purchase from the following vendors in Coeur d’ Alene: Black Sheep Sporting Goods, The Yacht Club Sales and Service and North Idaho Blueprint.

Gear: Good hiking boots or walking shoes are essential, and hikers should dress for changing conditions and carry drinking water and a first aid kit.

Note: Stop by the Farragut Ranger Station, located just off Highway 54 in Farragut State Park, to purchase a trail map and parking sticker.