No matter its color, asparagus is spear delight

When it comes to asparagus, people can get pretty opinionated. Thick or thin? Green, white or purple? For the true asparagus lover, it’s all good.

While taste and texture depend mostly on the location and skill of the grower, I think green spears generally have the best flavor. White asparagus is plentiful in Europe, but it’s hard to produce and is not favored in the United States, where you’ll pay at least double the price of the green asparagus. Growers attain the white color by preventing exposure of the spears to sunlight, a process called blanching, which is similar to how leeks are grown.

Purple asparagus, commonly available in spring, is also more expensive than green. And – as with most purple vegetables – that beautiful color quickly turns to green when cooked.

As for size, it’s a common misconception that thinner asparagus is more tender than thick. According to “The Field Guild to Produce” by Aliza Green, younger plants produce larger shoots, which means thicker spears may be more tender than thin.

Look for: Asparagus should have firm spears with tips that have tight, overlapping scales. Examine the tips carefully and reject any that have dark spots, a sign of decay. You should also avoid spears with a seedy, tasseled appearance at the tip and bulbous sprouts on the shaft, both signs of age. The taste doesn’t suffer, but the texture will be a little grainy.

Stems, where severed near the root, should be firm and light in color. Pick up the bunch and sniff the tips; the perfect scent will be musky and smell of freshly cut alfalfa. Decayed asparagus has a repugnant odor.

To store: Remove bands on the bunch (from the bottom, not over the tips), keep it dry and refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to four days.

Basic preparation: I usually peel white asparagus because the skin seems more fibrous than green. Use a peeler for the task, not a knife.Remove any big scales from the shaft with a paring knife; slide the blade under the tip of the scale, pinch it against the blade and pull it away. Rinse the entire spear, paying special attention to the tip, which can hold grit.

Measure two thumb widths above the stem bottom and bend the stem; it will snap at the point where the tender portion begins. Send the trimmed ends to the compost pile or use them for soup stock.

Cooking: Raw asparagus is palatable, but most folks seem to prefer it cooked. Bring about an inch of water to a boil in a wide skillet and lay the spears in it; boil gently, uncovered, for about 3 minutes for thin spears, 5 1/2 minutes for medium and 7 minutes for large, or until a fork pierces the stem with a bit of resistance. Do not overcook asparagus. Perfect asparagus will brighten in color as it cooks and quickly turns to swamp yellow when overdone.

Asparagus is also delicious when given a light coating of olive oil and then broiled, grilled or roasted at about 425 degrees. For a special treat, oil the spears, wrap them individually in thin strips of serrano ham or prosciutto, and then grill or broil for about 2 minutes.

Quick Chicken Sauté with Asparagus, Cherry Tomatoes and Lemon Pan Sauce

From Fine Cooking magazine, October/November 2002

2 medium boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (12 ounces total), cut into 3/4-inch chunks

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil

8 cherry tomatoes, halved

6 medium asparagus spears, ends trimmed, spears split down the middle and cut into 2-inch pieces (or 8 skinny spears cut into 2-inch pieces)

3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced

6 tablespoons low-salt canned chicken broth or water

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil

Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and asparagus and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have softened and the asparagus is golden brown around the edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Heat another 1 tablespoon oil in the pan and add the chicken. When the underside of the chicken has turned deep golden brown (about 1 minute), turn it with a metal spatula. Turn occasionally for even browning until almost cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chicken to the bowl of vegetables.

Reduce the heat to medium and heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil in the pan. Add the garlic, cooking until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the broth and the lemon juice, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits in the pan and blend them into the sauce. Simmer for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low and stir in the butter. Stir in the chicken, asparagus, tomatoes, any juices, and the basil. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.