Leeks and shallots part of onion family only sweeter

We use onions to turn a dish from bland and boring to flavorful and lively. Cooked onions contribute a subtle, natural sweetness to dishes. Raw sweet onions add crunch.

Leeks and shallots are part of the onion family, and when a recipe calls for them we may question whether the extra expense is worth it or if the yellow onions in the cupboard will suffice.

Substituting onions for leeks or shallots will result in a much stronger flavor, which might be detrimental to the intent of the original dish.

Leeks

Leeks look like overgrown green onions but have a more refined, subtle and sweet flavor than green or standard onions.

Select leeks with a clean, slender white bulb – at least 2 to 3 inches of white – and firm, tightly rolled, dark-green tops. The base is usually 11/2 to 21/2 inches thick. The younger the leek, the more delicate the flavor and texture. Look for slim, cylindrical ones rather than large, bulbous ones. Buy them firm and smooth, free of blemishes and with crisp, brightly colored leaves and flexible stems. The soil is constantly piled up around the base of the leek to encourage a long, thin white base. This growing method makes them attract dirt, so cleaning them thoroughly is important or you’ll end up with a gritty mess.

To prepare leeks to be sliced or chopped, trim off the root end and about 1/4 inch of the white base. Remove any ragged, coarse outer leaves and discard. Trim each of the darkest portion of the leaves down to the light-green, more-tender portion, leaving about 2 inches of green. The dark-green trimmed leaves can be reserved for other uses, such as flavoring chicken or beef stock. Slice the leeks down the center and rinse under cold running water to remove all dirt and sand, being careful to get in between the leaves. Drain on paper towels and proceed with the recipe.

Raw leeks can be sliced thin and added to salads. Roasted or braised leeks go well with pork, chicken and ham. They are used in soups such as potato leek. Add sliced leeks to your favorite omelet or frittata recipe.

Tarragon, chervil, thyme, basil and sage go well with leeks.

To store leeks, cut off and discard the tough dark-green tops. Wrap the leeks in damp paper towels inside a closed plastic bag. Do not wash leeks until ready to use. For best quality, use within a week.

Shallots

Look for shallots alongside the other onions and garlic at the market. Shallot clusters look something like garlic composed of multiple cloves, but they are a variety of onion. They are wrapped in a papery husk, which varies from a dull brownish to a brilliant bronze to a vibrant shade of rose. Their flavor has been called a combination of onion and garlic, but much milder. They have a sweet, aromatic, yet pungent flavor.

Look for shallots that are pleasingly plump and bear no trace of soft spots, green sprouts, dampness or shriveling.

Peeling a shallot is similar to peeling an onion. Trim off the roots and peel off the thin skin. When peeling a large number of shallot cloves, drop unpeeled cloves into boiling water and let them soak for about one minute. Drain and rinse them with cold water, then peel when they’re cool enough to handle.

Shallots cook quickly, maintaining a silky texture. Overcooking or using too high a heat can make them bitter.

Shallots are typically reserved for dishes in which only a hint of onion flavor is desired. Finely chop shallots and whisk them raw into a vinaigrette or creamy dressing. Coarsely chop, sauté and incorporate into a deglazed pan sauce or mushroom sauté. Slice into paper-thin wisps, fry in peanut oil until crisp and scatter over just about anything. Or drizzle them with oil and roast whole in a hot oven until tender and sweet.

Store shallots as you would onions or garlic, in a cool, dry, dark, well-ventilated place. They will stay fresh up to a month.