That sweet and spectacular fruit

Watermelon, that spectacular sweet treat that graces picnic baskets and summer tables, is one of Americans’ favorite fruits. And no wonder; with a water content of 90 to 92 percent, it’s the ideal fruit to bite into on a hot summer’s day.

But watermelon’s goodness is more than skin-deep. It’s so good in fact, that you might want to consider making it a regular part of your year-round diet.

Watermelon is an excellent source of antioxidant vitamins C and A, and lycopene, which may help boost immunity and ward off disease. It also provides potassium, niacin, vitamin B6 and fiber. Its high water content gives watermelon diuretic properties, often used in cleansing and detoxifying diets. Even the seeds are healthy, as a source of cucurbocitrin, a substance that dilates blood capillaries, helpful in lowering blood pressure.

Choosing a watermelon

Despite what most people tell you, the best way to know if the watermelon you’ve chosen is really a lemon is to taste it, which is why in some countries it is customary to ask the fruit vendor for a bite. Since the chances that your local greengrocer will comply are relatively nil, you might want to adopt one or more of the following methods:

The look: Look for a symmetrical melon with no gashes, cuts or bruises. The bottom should have a large cream-colored (not white or light green) spot on the bottom where your melon sat basking in the sun, and the stem should be green and somewhat dry, never wet, wrinkled or gnarled. Melons picked before their prime will never develop their full flavor.

If the melon is already cut, make sure there are no mealy edges or white streaks, and the black or brown seeds are not coming away from the flesh. An abundance of small white immature seeds is an indication that the melon was picked before fully ripened.

The feel: Pick up the watermelon. It should feel heavy for its size — an indication that the melon is very juicy.

The knock: Rap the melon with the knuckle of your forefinger or with the whole fist — like knocking on a door. You should hear a deep hollow sound.

Storage and handling

Whole watermelon may be kept at room temperature for a few days, but for best results store in the refrigerator for up to one week. If using cut watermelon wrap tightly, chill and use within a few days.

Watermelon safety

Although watermelon are one of the lowest in pesticide residues, the FDA recommends treating them like all fruits and vegetables — by washing under clean running water before placing on a cutting surface to slice. Make sure to wash your hands with soap and water and use clean knives and cutting surfaces.

Watermelon in the kitchen

While for most Americans eating watermelon is just a matter of slice-and-bite, some people like to cut it into cubes to add to fruit salad, blend it into smoothies or margaritas, freeze the flesh for watermelon ice pops or granita, pickle or curry the rind, carve the shell into a decorative basket and even bake the seeds as a snack.

In Israel, the most popular way to eat watermelon is cut into triangles or chunks, with a salty, fetalike Bulgarian cheese sliced or sprinkled on top. For enterprising Israeli chef and artisan baker Erez Komorovsky, that was the inspiration to create the exotic combinations in the salad recipes that follow. Serve the salads as sides, first courses or as snacks at parties.

There are many variations on this simple watermelon, feta and basil salad, some using fresh sage or mint leaves instead of basil, some adding black olives or sliced red onion, some substituting other kinds of cheese — Camembert, for example. This version blends hot and cold, salty and sweet for a new watermelon experience.

Watermelon, Feta Cheese and Basil Salad

From Israeli chef-baker Erez Komorovsky

1/4 medium-sized watermelon, regular or seedless (quartered lengthwise)

8 ounces feta cheese, cubed

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fistful of fresh basil or sage leaves

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Using a sharp knife, cut the 1/4 watermelon lengthwise once more, down the center, and away from the rind, then slice into 3/4 -inch slices, yielding two sets of triangles. Remove the seeds if desired, cover tightly and chill till serving time.

Just before serving, place on a large platter with raised sides (so the olive oil will not spill out). Sprinkle the feta cheese cubes over the watermelon.

Heat the olive oil till hot but not boiling, remove from heat, stir in the basil or sage leaves, and pour over the watermelon and cheese. Season with a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately with warm toasted pita, chunks of fresh country-style bread, forks and a glass of chilled wine.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving (based on 8): 372 calories, 34.6 grams fat (8 grams saturated, 83 percent fat calories), 4.9 grams protein, 11.4 grams carbohydrate, 25 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 319 milligrams sodium.

Watermelon, Red Onion and Blackberry Salad

From Israeli chef-baker Erez Komorovsky

Juice of 1 1/2 lemons

1 tablespoon sugar

1 cup fresh blackberries or raspberries

2 to 2 1/4 pounds watermelon, rind removed and cut into chunks

2 small red onions, peeled and sliced lengthwise

Bunch of watercress or arugula leaves, stems removed

5 ounces ripe goat cheese, crumbled (about 3/4 to 1 cup)

Coarsely ground white pepper to taste

In a small bowl, mix the lemon juice and sugar and gently add the blackberries. Set aside 1 hour. Transfer the watermelon, red onion and watercress leaves to a large serving platter, and sprinkle the cheese, white pepper, and finally the berries and lemon juice on top. (For lovers of spicy food, Erez suggests adding a finely minced fresh chili pepper to the lemon juice along with the berries.)

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving (based on 8): 130 calories, 6 grams fat (3.7 grams saturated, 38 percent fat calories), 5 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrate, 14 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 95 milligrams sodium.