Catalytic converter could cause stalling

Dear Bob: I just finished reading about a low-speed-stalling problem a reader wrote you about. G.K., of Lenexa, Kan., wrote about his 1990 Dodge van with a 318 engine. I had the same or similar problem with my 1996 Dodge van with a 318 engine that had more than 250,000 miles on it.

The shop could not find what was causing the problem either. We thought it was the fuel filter, but it wasn’t. I kept driving the van, and over time more problems occurred, such as a lack of power under load conditions.

Finally the van would not run at all, due to a bad catalytic converter. After it was replaced, the van ran normally again. Please inform G.K. to have his catalytic converter and exhaust system checked for any blockages.

— Thanks. J.L., Latham, N.Y.

A: Perhaps the answer to G.K.’s problem will be the same as yours. Thanks for your input!

Dear Bob: I enjoy your column, especially the offbeat problems that occur with automobiles. For 36 years I worked in an automobile dealership, and your article about wheel balancing brought to mind an experience I had.

A customer returned with a new car he had recently bought, complaining about a bad vibration. We determined that it was a wheel-balancing problem. After balancing the wheels I found that one wheel just couldn’t be balanced. The tire was removed and checked, and inside we found two quarts of water. Removing the water solved the problem.

— Sincerely, W.S., Overland Park, Kan.

A: Great story! But how did the water get inside the tire in the first place?

Dear Bob: I own a 1968 Buick Electra 225 with a 430 V-8 engine and four-barrel carburetor. A friend stated that I should have an electronic ignition installed for better mileage, fewer and cheaper tuneups, and better performance.

What are the costs and the pros and cons of his idea?

— T.L., Kansas City, Kan.

A: With a big 430-cubic-inch V-8 engine with a four-barrel carburetor, your vehicle is inherently thirsty.

An electronic ignition would help a little in improving fuel economy by creating a better spark and providing more complete ignition. In my opinion, however, its financial contribution would be minimal, and it would take a long, long time for such small economies even to pay off the electronic ignition.

My advice: Instead of buying an electronic ignition, why not check out having your carburetor’s jets or metering rods changed to more economical ones? This could make a difference your wallet would feel.

Dear Bob: Is there a way that a newcomer to cars can tell when the tires on a vehicle need to be replaced? Being single and owning my first car, I’ve heard all kinds of advice on when to purchase new tires.

Any suggestions for this neophyte?

— Sincerely, S.B., Dallas, Texas

A: One of the best indicators of tire wear is built into the tire itself: All tires have wear bars, rubber bars that run across the width of a tire, perpendicular to the tread pattern. These bars won’t show unless the tire has approximately 61/16 of an inch of tread left — still a safe amount, but an indication that the tires are on their last lap.

Assuming that there is no internal or external damage to the tire, the appearance of wear bars is a harbinger of a need for new tires some 5,000 miles or so down the road.

AMERICAN DRIVERS FIGHT BACK

Here’s a tip that will help you get better gas mileage while fighting terrorism and cutting our nation’s dependence on Mideastern oil:

OK, I know we all have to drive in bad weather sometimes. Be aware that any water on the road costs you about one mile per gallon. Government researchers recognize this fact and terminate EPA fuel-economy tests “if the pavement becomes damp enough that the car leaves visible tracks.”

Snow is even worse, the penalty increasing in proportion to the accumulation.

Driving on less-than-ideal road surfaces can have similar impact. Driving on broken or patched asphalt can lead to a 15-percent reduction in fuel economy, for example, while gravel will cost you 35 percent. Dry sand produces a whopping 45-percent reduction.

When you encounter any of these road or weather conditions, slow down — the greater efficiency of slower driving will take the sting out of the fuel-economy penalty you have to pay to the road surface.