Roast goose is yule classic

Goose has a long history as traditional Christmas fare, especially in Europe — where, of course, they didn’t have turkeys until such New World novelties began to catch on.

Think back to Dickens’ unforgettable version of the goose dinner, in “A Christmas Carol,” served with apple sauce and mashed potato. And then as the bird was carved, “the long expected gush of stuffing issued forth” — steamy, fragrant sage-and-onion stuffing.

In the United States, back in the 1870s, according to the cookbook “Good Housekeeping Great American Classics” (Hearst Books, 2004, $24.95), there were popular recipes for roasted goose for special occasions, including one that began: “On the day before Christmas, kill a fat goose and dress it.” Not the way we do it now, generally.

Good Housekeeping’s cookbook revisits many kinds of food traditions, reminds us of their historical context and suggests ways to keep them happily and tastily in the family’s present. Here’s the book’s recipe for goose roasted with orange halves and thyme tucked inside, made with a fresh or frozen bird most probably supplied by your local grocer.

Holiday Goose a l’Orange

Recipe from “Good Housekeeping Great American Classics,” Hearst Books, 2004, $24.95

1 fresh or frozen (thawed) goose (about 12 pounds)

5 medium oranges, each cut in half

1 bunch fresh thyme

4 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

3 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 cup orange marmalade

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove giblets and neck from goose; reserve for another use. Trim and discard fat from body cavity and any excess skin. Rinse goose inside and out with cold running water and drain well; pat dry with paper towels. With goose breast-side up, lift wings up toward neck, then fold wing tips under back of goose so wings stay in place. Place 6 orange halves, thyme sprigs and bay leaves in body cavity. Tie legs and tail together with kitchen string. Fold neck skin over back. With two-tine fork, prick goose in several places to drain fat during roasting.

Place goose, breast-side up, on rack in large roasting pan (17-by-11 1/2 inches). In cup, combine dried thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper; rub mixture over goose. Cover goose and roasting pan with foil. Roast 1 hour 30 minutes. Turn oven control to 325 degrees; roast 2 hours longer.

Meanwhile, in small bowl, from remaining 4 orange halves squeeze 3/4 cup juice. Stir in 1 tablespoon liqueur, cornstarch and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt; set aside. In cup, mix orange marmalade with remaining 2 tablespoons liqueur.

Remove foil and roast goose 45 minutes. Remove goose from oven and turn oven control to 450 degrees. Brush marmalade mixture over goose. Roast goose until skin is golden brown and crisp, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer goose to warm platter; let stand 15 minutes to set juices for easier carving.

To prepare sauce: Remove rack from roasting pan. Strain pan drippings through sieve into 8-cup measuring cup or large bowl. Let stand until fat separates from meat juice; skim and reserve fat for another use (there should be about 5 cups fat). Measure meat juice; if necessary, add enough water to meat juice to equal 1 cup. Return meat juice to boiling over medium heat, stirring; boil 1 minute. Serve sauce with goose. Remove skin before eating if desired.

Yield: 10 main-dish servings.

Nutrition information per serving of goose without skin or sauce: About 460 calories, 50 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrate, 25 grams total fat (8 grams saturated, 49 percent fat calories), 50 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrate, 170 milligrams cholesterol, 345 milligrams sodium.

Nutrition information per tablespoon orange sauce: About 5 calories, no fat, no protein, no cholesterol, 20 milligrams sodium.