Purists Prefer Fish Prepared Simply

Mid-May marks the return of Alaska’s famed Copper River salmon to Inland Northwest markets. The large amount of fat the fish put on for their trip back up the long, rugged river system gives them their exquisite taste.

Because the fish are naturally so rich, purists prefer them prepared simply - with, say, some lemon-pepper seasoning, or butter and a little vermouth. (For an Asian accent, I grilled my first Copper River salmon of the season over indirect heat, basting with a mixture of sake, rice vinegar and a little sesame oil, and served it with the Ginger and Sesame Coleslaw recipe from last week’s food section. And, of course, more sake.)

Helene Siegel, author of the “Totally Salmon Cookbook” (Celestial Arts Publishing, 1997), suggests this oven-roasted recipe to preserve the wild flavor of the fish.

Roasted Salmon Fillet

1 (1-1/2-pound) salmon fillet, with skin

Olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Lemon slices, for garnish

Preheat broiler.

Rub fish all over with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on a foil-lined tray, skin-side up. Broil about 6 inches from the heat until the skin is golden but not charred. Remove from oven and turn fish over into an oiled roasting pan. Reduce oven heat to 425 degrees. Bake fish for 15 minutes, or until it flakes easily. Transfer to a platter, top with lemon slices and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

, DataTimes