Dear Spears Washington’s Famed Asparagus Shoots Up And Into Stores

Its regal posture, combined with a sweet flavor and toothsome texture, has helped asparagus earn a reputation as the king of luxury vegetables.

And stalks from Washington are considered among the best of the bunch.

“Washington asparagus is wonderful,” said chef Karla Graves of the Paprika restaurant in Spokane. “It’s sweeter than California and is darker in color, with almost a purple cast to it. And because it’s local, it’s much fresher when we get it.”

The state’s short asparagus season is now in full swing, with the prized vegetable remaining available until around the end of June.

More than 100 million pounds of Washington asparagus are harvested each year - 40 percent of the nation’s production. Much of it comes from the Yakima and Tri-Cities area, but Walla Walla asparagus is held in the highest regard.

“They developed the product a long time ago, so they have the reputation,” said Randy Saisslin of OH’Brine’s. The Spokane company pickles several thousand pounds of asparagus each year.

Saisslin said he looks for spears that aren’t too thick.

“You want something tender, not stringy or tough, something that will have a nice crispness to it,” he said.

While most of us think of the ultimate asparagus preparation as steamed spears smothered in hollandaise sauce, the vegetable is plenty versatile.

In the recently released “Asparagus Festival Cookbook” (Celestial Arts Publishing, $5.95), author Jan Moore comes up with more than 50 ways to cook asparagus, including such oddball concoctions as an asparagus margarita, asparagus jelly and a cake with asparagus baked in it.

Marla Emde, chef-owner of Sprouts Fresh Cafe in Spokane, prefers more traditional dishes and likes the vegetable’s visual appeal.

“We’ve gotten a lot of compliments when we have used it on an open-face roasted veggie sandwich,” she said.

But Emde’s favorite use for asparagus is in a rich, velvety soup.

“It has such a distinct flavor that it is strong enough to stand out in a creamy soup,” she said. Her lightened-up version relies on pureed rice to provide thickness and fresh tarragon to accentuate the flavor.

With barbecue season dawning, asparagus is also a great candidate for the grill.

“I blanch it and then grill it with olive oil,” said Graves. “It makes a great match for other spring things, like wild salmon.”

There has been much confusion over exactly how long to cook asparagus, which helps explain how some people have grown to hate it. When overcooked, asparagus turns slimy and mushy.

According to the Washington Asparagus Commission, asparagus should be placed in a skillet with 1/2 cup water. Bring it to a boil and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, until tender-crisp.

Some chefs rely on the eye test, taking it off the heat when it turns bright green (after only a couple of minutes in boiling water).

The following recipes demonstrate the deft twists and turns a cook can take when using this versatile vegetable.

Shrimp, Asparagus and Fresh Herb Linguine

This easy dish from the “Asparagus Festival Cookbook” is perfect fare for spring. Serve it with crusty French bread.

12 ounces linguine

7 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound medium raw shrimp, peeled and cleaned

8 cloves garlic

1/3 cup shallots, chopped

2/3 cup bottled clam juice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped

1/4 cup fresh dill, chopped (or 1 tablespoon dried dill)

1 teaspoon pepper

Salt to taste

1-1/2 cups cooked asparagus (see instructions in story above), cut into 1-inch pieces

Cook linguine until just tender. Drain and return to the same pot to keep warm. Mix in 1 tablespoon butter, reserving the rest.

Heat olive oil in heavy, large skillet over medium heat. Add shrimp and saute about 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Using a slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to a bowl. Add garlic, shallots and 1 tablespoon butter to the skillet. Cook 2 minutes, then add clam juice and wine. Increase the heat and boil mixture about 8 minutes, until reduced by half.

Reduce heat to medium-low. Whisk in remaining butter. Return shrimp and any accumulated juices to skillet. Add parsley, dill, pepper, salt and linguine; toss to blend. Add asparagus and toss gently to mix.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 786 calories, 35 grams fat (40 percent fat calories), 37 grams protein, 77 grams carbohydrate, 230 milligrams cholesterol, 353 milligrams sodium.

No-Guilt Guacamole

Also from the “Asparagus Festival Cookbook.” Asparagus is packed with all sorts of nutrients, including vitamin C, B-6 and folic acid, and it is fat free.

4 cups asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons lime juice

1/4 cup canned, chopped green chilies

1/2 teaspoon each salt and cumin

2 tablespoons onion, chopped

1/2 cup tomato, seeded and chopped

Cook asparagus in small amount of water until tender. Drain well and cool thoroughly.

In food processor, puree asparagus, garlic, lime juice, chilies, salt and cumin until mixture is smooth, about 30 seconds.

Remove from food processor and stir in onion and tomato. Chill thoroughly and serve with tortilla chips, cut vegetables or seafood.

Yield: 2 cups.

Nutrition information per serving: 27 calories, 0.3 grams fat (10 percent fat calories), 2 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 289 milligrams sodium.

Asparagus Italiano

This dish from the Washington Asparagus Commission could serve as a flavorful accompaniment. Or, when paired with a salad, it could be a light supper.

1 pound asparagus, washed and trimmed

1 medium onion, chopped

1 large stalk celery, chopped

2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, shredded

2 tablespoons bread crumbs

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

1/4 teaspoon thyme

1/4 teaspoon oregano

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray rectangular baking dish with nonstick spray. Place asparagus in a single layer in bottom of the dish. Top with the onion, celery, cheese, bread crumbs, tomatoes and herbs. Cover and bake 20 minutes until tender-crisp.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 60 calories, 1.3 grams fat (20 percent fat calories), 4 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrate, 2 milligrams cholesterol, 221 milligrams sodium.

Asparagus, Mushroom and Sweet Onion Pizza

Chef Jimmy Schmidt of the Rattlesnake Club in Detroit guarantees this recipe will reform even the most ardent asparagus hater.

1 tablespoon cornmeal

Pizza dough (recipe follows)

1 large Vidalia or other sweet onion, peeled, ends removed, halved

Olive oil, canola or corn oil

1/2 pound wild or domestic mushrooms, cleaned, sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 garlic clove, peeled, ends removed, finely minced

Red pepper flakes to taste

1 pound asparagus, coarse lower stem trimmed

3/4 cup grated mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup blue, Gorgonzola or Roquefort cheese, crumbled, optional

1/4 cup green onions, sliced on the bias

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or snipped fresh chives

Preheat oven to 450 degrees, with a pizza stone placed on the lower rack. Sprinkle work surface with cornmeal. Roll out the pizza dough into a large disc about 1/4 inch thick and place on a pizza paddle or large wooden cutting board dusted well with cornmeal. Place in a warm spot to rise while preparing topping. (A large baking sheet or pizza pan can be used in place of the pizza stone; do not preheat.)

Cut half of the onion into thin slices and dice the remaining half.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat a few drops of the oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms, cooking until golden and tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate to reserve.

Using the same pan, still over high heat, add a few additional drops of oil. Add the garlic, diced onion and red pepper flakes to taste, cooking until the onion is tender and golden brown, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and reserve.

To a large pot of boiling water, add the asparagus and cook until firm to the bite, about 3 or 4 minutes depending on the size of your asparagus. Do not overcook. Transfer to a colander; drain and cool under cold running water. Cut the asparagus in half lengthwise from tip to base.

To assemble, spread the cooked onions and garlic evenly over the pizza crust. Position the raw onion rings, half of the mushrooms and half of the asparagus over the pizza. Sprinkle with the mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. If desired, place the blue cheese in little pieces across the surface of the pizza. Artistically arrange the remaining asparagus and mushrooms across the cheese. Top with the green onions.

Slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is golden and the cheese is melted, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the stone, using a paddle, and transfer to a cutting board (or, using oven mitts, carefully remove entire stone from oven). Top with the tarragon or chives and allow to rest for a couple of minutes. Cut and serve immediately.

Yield: 1 (12-inch) pizza, or 8 slices.

Nutrition information per slice: 232 calories, 7 grams fat (27 percent fat calories), 51 milligrams cholesterol, 206 milligrams sodium, 31 grams carbohydrate, 11 grams protein.

Pizza Dough

1/2 package (1-1/4 teaspoons) yeast

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 cup lukewarm water, about 110 degrees

2 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, divided

Pinch of salt

1 large egg, beaten

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon olive oil

In a small bowl, combine the yeast, sugar and water. Let rest until it foams.

In a food processor fitted with plastic dough blade or regular blade, combine 2 cups flour and salt. Mix in egg, then the yeast mixture until a ball forms. Work just until the dough pulls away from the side of the bowl, then add 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Using remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil, grease a large bowl. Immediately remove the dough and place it in the oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and allow the dough to rise to double in a dry, warm place, about 45 minutes. Punch down, then allow to double again, about 20 minutes.

Using remaining 1 tablespoon flour (or more as needed), lightly flour the dough and work surface. Roll dough into 1 (12-inch) circle, or divide and roll into 2 thin 9-inch circles.

Dough can be placed between wax paper and held in the refrigerator until needed, up to 3 days, or frozen.

Yield: 1 (12-inch) or 2 (9-inch) crusts.

Note: The pizza dough is quite fluffy when baked the same day. The following day, the dough produces a flatter, more crackerlike crust.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Color Photo