Get A Leg Up Proper Cooking And Trimming Will Help You Get The Most Out Of A Leg Of Lamb

Mary had a little lamb. With a crown of creamy garlic mashed potatoes on the side.

Lucky Mary. That lamb is crusty brown and herbed on the outside, juicy and pink on the inside. What better treat for spring?

Leg of lamb, either boned and grilled or bone-in and roasted, makes the perfect centerpiece for a special meal.

Too bad some folks think that lamb tastes gamey. They’ve overdosed on cooked-until-gray, poorly trimmed lamb. Overcooked, the flavor is muddled. Untrimmed, the aroma is unpleasant.

Modern breeding methods have improved lamb’s taste and texture. It’s leaner, too. Federal regulations require that any sheep older than 12 months be labeled mutton, but most of the lamb we eat is even younger, 5 to 7 months old.

Shorter cooking times retain the meat’s sweet tenderness and succulent juices. Use an instant-read thermometer to determine the doneness. Don’t place this type of thermometer in the oven, or inside a covered barbecue. When you want to test the meat, insert it in the thickest part (not resting on bone or fat) and within seconds, it will give you a temperature reading.

Many European countries cook lamb to only 130 degrees. This is too rare for most American tastes, where lamb is considered rare and properly pink at 140 degrees. Medium is 150 to 160 degrees, and - heaven help us! - well done is 175 degrees.

Careful trimming is a flavor necessity. Remove excess fat and fell (the thin outer membrane over the muscle) before cooking. Either ask the butcher to do it or remove it yourself. Remove all but a very thin layer of fat on top of the leg. To remove the fell, pry up an edge with the tip of a knife and rip it off like a Band-Aid.

Leg of lamb offers both the tender, marbled meat of the upper portion (sirloin end) and the firmer, leaner meat of the lower portion (shank end).

With the bone in, legs are sold either whole or cut in approximately half, making a sirloin roast and a shank roast. If you’re serving no more than six guests, a smaller roast is a good idea. You save time and money.

With the bone removed (ask your butcher), the leg can either be rolled and tied into a roast or butterflied. Butterflying means a few strategic slashes are cut into the meat, making it lie flat - perfect for fast grilling or broiling.

Roasting bone-in leg of lamb takes less time than if you remove the bone, roll and tie it, because the bone spreads the heat through the meat.

Although some cooks prefer higher roasting temperatures (400 degrees), others argue that keeping a constant 325 degrees minimizes the loss of juices and prevents shrinkage. Actually, it’s delicious either way.

Before roasting, add flavor without adding fat by making small pockets in the roast with the tip of a small, pointed knife. Insert slivers of fresh garlic and sprinkle on generous amounts of fresh herbs (usually rosemary and/or thyme) and salt and pepper.

Boned and butterflied leg of lamb, grilled crunchy brown on the outside and pinky tender on the inside, is barbecue ambrosia. Marinate it six hours or overnight, drain and grill. It takes about one-third the cooking time of bone-in leg of lamb roasted in the oven.

Marinades can be as easy as equal parts dry red wine, orange juice and soy sauce. If you want to make a syrupy glaze, add honey, olive oil, thyme, lime juice and garlic. After marinating, boil the marinade to thicken it and brush it on meat during the last half of grilling (see recipe below for Grilled Orange-Glazed Butterflied Leg of Lamb).

To perfume the meat - and your yard - place a few sprigs of fresh rosemary on the coals. Cover the barbecue, but leave the vents open. The swirls of herb-scented smoke are mouthwatering.

For leftovers, strips of lamb tucked into a pita make a tasty sandwich. Slivers of lamb on a bed of mixed salad greens, dressed with a vinaigrette flavored with fresh herbs and Dijon-style mustard, make a dynamite salad. Add strips of roasted bell pepper or olives, if you like. Or serve sliced lamb with a tomato salad (toss ripe tomato wedges with vinaigrette; add sliced, seeded cucumbers, if desired). Use lamb bones to create a Scotch broth augmented with barley or lentils and diced vegetables.

Pan-roasting vegetables along with the meat is fast and delicious. Use potatoes, pearl onions, shallots, garlic and carrots. The pan drippings are partially absorbed by the vegetables. To reduce the fat content, cook vegetables separately and season them with a little minced fresh rosemary, parsley and a smidgen of olive oil.

Green beans, asparagus or artichokes also taste great with lamb. And, of course, garlic mashed potatoes.

Simple Roast Leg of Lamb

1 (6- to 8-pound) leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat

3 to 5 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves

Salt and pepper to taste

Garnish: sprigs of fresh rosemary

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Place lamb, meaty side down, in roasting pan. Cut peeled garlic into slivers. Using the point of a small knife, make incisions (slits) in meat at frequent intervals and insert garlic slivers. Rub lemon juice over lamb surface. Sprinkle with herbs, salt and pepper.

Roast in preheated oven for 20 minutes per pound for medium rare or until internal temperature reaches 140 degrees, or 25 minutes per pound for medium or until internal temperature reaches 150 degrees. When you test the lamb, if more time is needed, return to oven and test every 12 minutes.

Remove from oven, cover loosely and let stand for 15 minutes before slicing. Temperature will rise approximately 10 degrees while standing.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 247 calories, 10.5 grams fat (38 percent fat calories), 113 milligrams cholesterol, 87 milligrams sodium.

Grilled Orange-Glazed Butterflied Leg of Lamb

1/3 cup dry red wine

1/2 cup orange juice

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 cup honey

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon finely grated orange peel (zest), colored part only

1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, such as Tabasco

1/2 teaspoon dried or 1-1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, crumbled

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 (7-1/2-pound) leg of lamb (once boned, about 5 pounds), butterflied and well trimmed

Combine all ingredients except the lamb in a glass baking dish or pour into a large, sealable plastic bag. Add lamb and seal bag or cover pan with plastic wrap. Refrigerate 6 hours.

Start barbecue or preheat broiler.

Drain lamb, reserving marinade. Place marinade in a large, deep skillet or saucepan. Boil over high heat until syrupy and mahogany colored, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.

Grill lamb for 10 to 13 minutes per side. Brush with glaze on both sides and continue to grill until lamb is medium-rare and juicy inside. Allow meat to rest 15 minutes.

Cut on the diagonal (slant the knife) across the grain into thin slices.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 334 calories, 12.9 grams fat (35 percent fat calories), 113 milligrams cholesterol, 469 milligrams sodium.

Roasted Half Leg of Lamb With Vegetables

1/4 cup olive oil, divided use

1 (4-pound) shank end of leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat

3 to 5 cloves garlic (peeled), plus 1 large head garlic (unpeeled)

Salt, preferably kosher

Freshly ground black pepper

6 sprigs fresh rosemary

4 baking potatoes, such as russets, washed, dried and cut into lengthwise quarters

4 peeled shallots

Sprigs of fresh rosemary, for garnish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease a small roasting pan with 1 teaspoon olive oil

Cut peeled garlic into slivers. Using the point of a small knife, make incisions (slits) in meat at frequent intervals and insert garlic slivers. Place meat in small roasting pan and rub with about 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Season meat with salt and pepper. Insert sprigs of rosemary in some of the incisions.

Leaving head of garlic intact, cut off pointed end about 1/2 inch from end. Place, cut side up, next to meat and drizzle on a little olive oil.

Place potatoes and shallots in a bowl and drizzle on remaining olive oil. Toss. Place vegetables around meat. Season with a little salt and pepper.

Place in preheated oven for 1 hour to 1 hour and 20 minutes, basting from time to time with cooking juices. Internal temperature should be 140 degrees for medium rare or 150 degrees for medium. When you test the lamb, if more time is needed, return to oven and test every 12 minutes.

Allow meat to rest out of oven for 15 minutes. Slice and serve with vegetables. Pluck roasted garlic cloves from head of garlic (or squeeze them out) and scatter over vegetables.

Yield: 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 480 calories, 23.8 grams fat (45 percent fat calories), 118 milligrams cholesterol, 142 milligrams sodium.

Grilled Butterflied Leg of Lamb With Currant Bell Pepper Chutney

Adapted from “From the Earth to the Table,” by John Ash (Dutton, 1995). This chutney, which blends tart, sweet and spicy flavors, can accompany a wide variety of broiled or grilled meats.

1/2 (about 4 pounds) leg of lamb, boned and butterflied, well trimmed of excess fat

Marinade:

1-1/2 cups dry red wine

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 tablespoon crushed fresh rosemary (or 1/2 tablespoon dried)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves (or 1/2 tablespoon dried)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/3 teaspoon dried red chili flakes

Salt to taste, kosher preferred

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chutney:

1/2 cup currants

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chopped onions

1-1/2 cups red bell peppers, seeded and chopped

1 cup chicken broth

1/4 cup port wine

1-1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Reserved marinade

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Salt and pepper to taste

Place lamb in a large, sealable plastic bag. In a small bowl, combine all marinade ingredients, except the salt and pepper. Pour marinade into bag and seal well. Place in refrigerator for 3-4 hours. Remove lamb from marinade and reserve marinade to use in chutney. Pat lamb dry and season with salt and pepper.

Cover the currants with warm water and soak for 30 minutes. Drain.

Heat oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and bell peppers; saute 3 minutes or until onions are just beginning to soften. Add chicken broth, port, vinegar and reserved marinade. Reduce over medium-high heat until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 10-15 minutes. Stir in currants and mint; season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Grill lamb over a mesquite or charcoal fire for approximately 10-20 minutes per side (depending on how thick the meat is and how hot the fire is) or until lamb is medium-rare and juicy inside. Allow meat to rest 15 minutes.

Cut lamb on the diagonal (slant the knife) across the grain into thin slices and top with chutney. Yield: 5 to 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 449 calories, 17.4 grams fat (35 percent fat calories), 129 milligrams cholesterol, 296 milligrams sodium.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: CARVING IS EASY Carving a whole leg of lamb looks dramatic, but it’s not difficult: Allow cooked lamb to sit 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board. Grab the shank bone with a kitchen towel and lift to tilt the leg. Start carving from the rounded side of the leg, always cutting away from you. Slice the meat thinly. Keep the knife blade almost parallel to the bone. After you have carved down to the bone, turn the leg around and carve from the flatter muscle on the opposite side. Carve the shank. Because it is so small, the shank is always well done, but the meat melts into succulent little slices.