Breaking In Boots Takes Some Patience

Q. I recently purchased a pair of La Sportiva Makalu leather mountaineering boots and went into the local mountains to break them in. I wore sock liners and a thick pair of wool socks. Well, after seven hours it was Boots 2, Larry 0. As expected, I developed hot spots on my heels. A lot of Moleskin and tightening my laces to hold my heel down seemed to remedy that. The descent was another story. On easy downslopes where I could take a full stride, the top of the boot would flex and press down on the top of my big toe. Also, later in the day the outside of my right calf felt very tender at the top of the boot. And, finally, the pad on the bottom of my foot near my small toe was feeling pretty raw by the end of the day, although it never did blister.

Is there such a thing as a break-in period? Is there anything I can do to lessen the discomfort or to fine-tune the fit?

Larry Buttrey

Gear Guy replies: I feel your pain, man. If the FBI is ever looking for me (not that they would ever want ME! For ANYTHING!! Not even that great cannabi, never mind), the “Wanted” poster will read. “The Gear Guy is handsome, smart, and a master of disguises. He can be identified through severe boot scars on his feet.”

The Makalu is a serious boot, Larry, and you have to treat it with patience, respect and a keen appreciation of what an enraged boot can do to your feet.

My advice is three-fold:

First, wear the boot around the house. The warmth and moisture from your feet will help mold and soften the leather. You don’t have to hike around the house; just sitting and reading a book or watching multiple “Gilligan’s Island” reruns will help. Wear them for chores around the house, like washing the car or mowing the lawn.

Second, make sure you have the right sock combination. I’ve had great success in recent years with a light polypropylene or poly/silk liner sock, and a wool/synthetic blend over-sock like a Thorlo Hiking or Mt. Climber sock. Too much sock can make your feet sweat, which will exacerbate fit problems.

Third, start with SHORT trips on gentle terrain. Try to get in 15-20 miles of hikes only a few miles long, then work up to longer trips.

That should do it. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to do some experimenting with fit-altering gadgets such as heel liners, or perhaps even have the boots surgically altered by a good cobbler. But assuming you were fitted properly (too late to take them back now!) and don’t have weird feet, you should be OK. You were just being overly optimistic about the break-in required.

Q. I was wondering what size backpack in cubic inches I should get for overnight mountain bike trips and/or for regular backpacking. I plan on going for only a couple of days and my price range is under $200.

Paul Schuette

Gaer Guy replies: For backpacking trips of one to three nights, you shouldn’t need more than 3,500-4,000 cubic inches There should be more packs on the market in that range; makers tend to churn out sub-3,000 day packs or plus 5,000 week-long packs. Gregorys new Reality, a 4,000-cubic-inch pack, recognizes that most people can’t get out for more than a few days at a time. It’s a great pack; I’ve been wearing a sample model over the winter. And it goes for a reasonable $200. Also look at Keltys Dune ($200) or Lowe Al pines Australis 70 ($155).

Bike trips are a different matter. Packs just don’t work on backs when bicycling. The most economical alternative is to mount a luggage rack to your bike and buy a pair of Performance HP rear panniers ($80/pair). They’re a tremendous bargain in a well-made pannier. Put your heavy stuff in them, and perhaps use a day pack for extra clothes and light items. The key is to keep weight as low as possible.

Of course, if your bike has rear suspension, things get more complicated. The best alternative then is a single-wheel trailer, like a B.O.B. They run about $250 and work well on single-track trails.

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