Remote Charm Visitors, Residents Enjoy Sights And Sounds Of Boise

People fish for trout in the middle of town, rare birds of prey often swoop overhead, and there’s a fine Shakespeare festival.

Boiseans love their city and take pride in showing its sights to visiting relatives - from historic buildings to lush parks to a children’s hands-on science museum. But even people without family ties are discovering the charms of visiting a place whose major claim to fame is that there’s not another big city within 300 miles.

Remoteness has its advantages. Boise has only about 150,000 people, but enjoys the amenities of a city twice its size - from a major university to restaurants, museums and galleries. And it sits within easy reach of whitewater rafting, rock climbing, skiing, backpacking and more.

The kicker is that, with fewer people, it’s easier to take in all those things. Folks can stroll downtown at night without fear. People commute to work by bicycle, some along the riverfront Greenbelt. There’s seldom a problem getting tickets for an event or getting where you want to go.

A University of Idaho study a few years ago found that 42 percent of Idaho’s tourists came here to see friends and relatives. Only 29 percent came just to sightsee.

That gives Boise tourism something of a unique feel. A common sight is local folks riding the “Tour Train” through town with grandparents, grandkids and other assorted visitors. The “train” (it’s open and runs on wheels) departs from the historical museum and runs a circuit heavy on historic buildings, from the many that still stand downtown to the graceful mansions that line Warm Springs Avenue.

Little-known fact (unless you have relatives here): Those mansions are heated geothermally, by natural underground hot springs. So is the state Capitol. Even a few of the newer buildings downtown have tapped into Boise’s natural heat source.

Another sight on the circuit is Boise’s remarkable Egyptian Theater, built back during the King Tut craze and preserved - and used - ever since. The theater features ornate carvings of Egyptian figures and scenes inside and out, plus it’s a traditional single-screen movie house showing first-run movies.

Zoo Boise, located in Julia Davis Park, has a fearsome Bengal tiger, zebras, camels, and - my daughter’s favorite - exotic, tiny-faced capuchin monkeys who carry their babies on their backs as they swing from branch to perch.

The 20-mile riverfront Greenbelt runs past the zoo. This popular pathway draws bicyclists, joggers, skaters and strollers; many locals consider it a defining feature of their city.

Boise also is home to the largest concentration of Basques in the United States, and features North America’s only Basque museum. The Oinkari Basque Dancers of Boise perform internationally.

Boiseans feel like they have a lot to celebrate, and the city has long wanted an attraction specifically to bring in tourists. So in 1991, it launched the Boise River Festival, which has grown into a four-day extravaganza of music, sports events, parades and spectacles, all free.

This year’s festival is June 27-30. Headliners include Ben Vereen, The Lettermen and The Nylons, along with the great international jazz pianist Gene Harris, who calls Boise home and plays here frequently.

Between bike races, a lighted parade at night and a parade through town of giant balloons, the festival draws thousands of people. Many are locals who have embraced it as a community celebration; hundreds volunteer at the festival each year.

My favorite part of the Boise River Festival is seeing dozens of hot-air balloons rise with the sun and hang over the city and river.

But such sights aren’t really uncommon here. Viewed from the brown, sage-scented foothills that ring the north and east ends of the city, the Boise Valley’s sky often is graced by hot-air balloons on days when the weather is right.

And the balloons don’t seem to bother the ducks, quail, geese, and even peregrine falcons that skim across Boise’s skies.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Photo

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU GO Parks The Boise River Greenbelt, stretching for 20 miles along the Boise River, is popular for bicycling, in-like skating, walking and jogging. It connects some of Boise’s parks, including the riverfront Julia Davis and Ann Morrison parks. Kathryn Albertson Park is a refuge of sorts in the city, where people can stroll amid fountains, waterfalls and ponds along with ducks, geese and other wildlife. There are a dozen golf courses.

Downtown Boise’s renovated downtown centers around The Grove, a public plaza paved partly with bricks sponsored by residents (and engraved with their names). A tall, ground-level fountain at the center of The Grove attracts youngsters in bare feet on hot days. Two bronze sculptures, one of children playing marbles and one of great blue herons, set off the plaza. Around downtown are restaurants, shops, office towers and the historic state Capitol building, which is open for tours.

Museums Boise’s museums range from the Discovery Center of Idaho (208-343-9895), a hands-on science museum; to the Basque Museum and Cultural Center (208-343-2671). There are also art and historical museums, and the Old Idaho Territorial Penitentiary (208-334-2844). Visitors to the Morrison Knudsen Nature Center (208-334-2225) can view life in the Boise River through underwater windows, and the World Center for Birds of Prey (208-362-8687) offers an introduction to the rare and spectacular raptors that are bred, protected and celebrated there.

Other The Idaho Shakespeare Festival performs outdoors from June through September. Information: (208) 336-9221. To ride the Boise Tour Train, call (208) 342-4796. Zoo Boise is open daily, with special prices for families on Thursdays; call (208) 384-4260.

Dining Here are a few of the many choices: Amore, at 10th Street and West Jefferson, features northern Italian fare. (208) 343-6435. Piper Pub & Grill, overlooking The Grove and downtown from the second floor of the Capitol Terrace building, is a popular spot that attracts an energetic adult crowd. (208) 343-2444. Peter Schott’s New American Cuisine is gourmet fare, in the elegance of the historic Idanha Hotel downtown. Try the brie soup. (208) 336-9100.

Accommodations Boise has more than 3,000 rooms, but they do fill up when a major event - like the Boise River Festival or an athletic tournament - hits town. Book a few weeks in advance to be safe. Among the choices: Boise Park Suite Hotel, at 424 E. ParkCenter Blvd., has suites with kitchens, complimentary snacks and newspapers and a fitness center, pool and whirlpool. (800) 342-1044. Red Lion Riverside, 2900 Chinden Blvd., on the river and Greenbelt, has a pool, fitness center, restaurants and bar, room service. (800) 547-8010. Idanha Hotel, 928 Main St., isn’t fully restored yet but offers a piece of Boise’s history and lower prices. Some rooms have bay windows or round turrets; all have period furnishings. (208) 342-3611.

Visitor information Boise Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 635-5240. Boise River Festival, June 27-30, (208) 338-8887.