We ate stewed clams and clam chowders and all manner of oysters: creamed oysters on toast, oysters in a chafing dish, broiled oysters on toast, oyster soups, oyster omelets and a rice-and-tomato-based concoction dubbed “a substantial oyster dish.” When a National Marine Fisheries Service biologist perused a 1906 Seattle cookbook, most of the seafood recipes involved shellfish.