The flame of a Key lime pie-scented candle flickers on an otherwise empty stage. Jimmy Buffett used to play for free beers at this 171-year-old morgue-turned-saloon, and surrounding the long bar at Captain Tony's are the wooden stools marked for regulars: Walter Cronkite, Ted Kennedy, David Allen Coe. The one onstage is stamped with MIKE LEACH, and just hours after Mississippi State University announced that its 61-year-old football coach had died of complications of a heart condition, Leach's bar stool has become a shrine of sorts. Staffers have been told it is not to be moved. Occasionally patrons bring it drinks.
