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Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

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Turning tables when chef reviews the critics

While home-basing in Seattle this fall, Leslie cooked up a fun fundraiser for the University Distirict Food Bank, where she has volunteered for many years.

She proposed this plan to her pal, Nancy Leson, former food critic for The Seattle Times: Let’s cook a meal for chef Tom Douglas at his Hot Stove Society and give him the chance to critique our dishes while guests who donated at the food bank’s auction get to relish the moment.

Of course, there would be a delicious lunch served and guests were invited to watch the taping of Tom’s radio show, which airs weekly on KIRO radio. What could possibly go wrong?

Spoiler alert: It went surprisingly well, but that’s because Tom’s magical culinary team did all the prepping so all we needed to do was not mess things up.

But backing up to the true goal of this experience. It was all about amplifying the need to support organizations like the food bank. The demand has never been greater, as prices continue to rise – don’t get us started on corporate greed being the real culprit, not inflation – and working class wages remain stagnant.

Leslie joined the food bank’s board in 2010 and served two terms. She marveled at the scrappy crew – Joe, Paul and Bill – who rose to the challenge of providing sustenance to those in need by offering a novel approach. Customers are given the opportunity to shop in a setting that resembles an old-fashioned corner store.

Over the years, as the demand for services continued to rise, the food bank dramatically expanded, moving into a brand new space that now includes a rooftop vegetable garden. Services grew to include delivering food to a growing number of folks who couldn’t leave their homes because of mobility issues, and providing backpacks for kids so they’d have food when they didn’t have access to free lunch. No shock, the teachers at participating schools reported those students were more attentive in class.

Before any Scrooge wannabes start shaking their heads, let’s trot out another cliche: Walk a mile in their shoes. Unless you’ve known true hunger, it’s difficult to relate, but try. OK, good, you get the picture. That’s why we remain committed to helping others whenever we can.

Back to the chef-turned-critic party: Tom took the opportunity to ask a few questions while Leslie and Nancy prepared the meal, which began with a beautiful clams and mussels dish from the late Tamara Murphy’s first cookbook. The former critics talked about their process, showing up incognito. Nancy told of being spotted by a friend who was a server at one hot spot she was reviewing. “How’d you know I was here?” Nancy asked. “I was back in the kitchen,” the server-friend said, “and the chef called out the order to be picked up. He said, ‘Nancy Leson’s (halibut) cheeks are up!’ “

Leslie told of her experience reviewing in The Spokesman-Review, saying she’d been caught red-handed – be-wigged – once when showing up in disguise. The chef wandered over to the table and said hi with a thinly veiled sneer. On another occasion, a miffed chef showed up in front of her house at midnight after a mixed review. Scary, but he drove off after stomping up and down the street in a huff for a few minutes.

When all was said and done and the meal was served, Tom suggested the salmon was a touch overcooked and the Thai curry risotto was a bit fiery for the average palate. Oh, and for the big finish, Nancy walked the crowd through her signature dessert, a tiramisu. Tom teased her about using premade ladyfingers and she dished it right back. Who knows, maybe they’ll take this entertaining and hopefully thought-provoking show on the road.

In the meantime, if you’re looking for a way to make the world a better place, please consider donating to the Spokesman-Review’s Christmas Bureau.



Leslie Kelly
Leslie Kelly is a freelance writer.