Taking a deep dive into Whidbey Island
![An evening walk on the beach at Fort Casey Historical State Park. (Leslie Kelly)](https://thumb.spokesman.com/gkYCME3Yi0qiQrLncav1ATVOp_0=/1200x800/smart/media.spokesman.com/photos/2023/07/20/FortCaseyBeach.jpeg)
How long does it take to feel at home in a place? That’s the million-dollar question we constantly ask and answer while on the road.
Sometimes, the connection is a love-at-first-sight kind. For us, that’s been Taos, N.M., Sedona, Encinitas, Calif., and Port Townsend. In other destinations, it’s taken longer to fully appreciate all our temporary home has to offer.
After a few weeks on Whidbey, volunteering at the Admirialty Head Lighthouse, we think we’ve finally figured out this lovely island. Here are a few key heartwarming a-ha moments that nudged us into falling for this special place.
Our sweet campsite: We’re so grateful for our temporary home base, a private site tucked in behind the Fort Casey State Park camp office. We’re surrounded by towering Doug Fir yet have enough room to pitch a tent for company. As volunteers working five days a week at the historic lighthouse, we’re given access to an employee laundry room. Huge perk! And our after-dinner walks along the bluff are absolutely breathtaking, especially when we spy one of the huge bald eagles that hang out on the beach.
Charming Coupeville: The nearest town looks as if it were lifted from a movie set, the walkable Main Street filled with intriguing shops and a historic wharf, which played a pivotal role in the island’s development. Early on, we spent the night at a gorgeous waterfront property in the heart of the action. Salty Von’s Waterfront Inn has been lovingly updated to create spacious accommodations that are perfect for a family getaway.
Leslie wanted so badly to play in that stylish suite’s gourmet kitchen, but we also wanted to check out the tempting eateries nearby. After a lovely cocktail and baked oyster appetizer at Overboard, we walked to Gordon’s Fusion and felt fortunate to grab one of the last available tables. It took a while to get food on the table because it was so busy, but it was worth the wait. There’s really nothing quite like the bliss of eating Penn Cove Shellfish’s stellar mussels with a view of Penn Cove.
Mighty Oak Harbor: This bustling burg is home to the Naval Air Station and makes for a prime place to shop. Within a few blocks you can hit up major supermarkets and quite possibly the best smokehouse on the West Coast. (Yes, we’ve tried most of them.) Seabolt’s is home to a casual restaurant, but also sells spectacular fish smoked next door. You must have their black cod!
Lovely Langley: Another adorable village, this walkable waterfront downtown is packed with excellent gift shops, a groovy grocery store and busy restaurants. We snagged a stool at the bar at Saltwater Fish House and swooned over what might be the best crab cakes we’ve ever eaten. Thin as a pancake and ultra-crabby, these beauties were served with a verde sauce and slaw.
State parks galore: Beyond the towns, there are so many state parks to explore on this 58-mile long chunk of land in the Salish Sea. We enjoy our nightly beach walks at Fort Casey and John recently did a seven-mile shoreline hike along the Pacific Northwest Trail through Fort Ebey State Park. Up north, there’s the popular-for-good-reason Deception Pass State Park and on the opposite end, Possession Point deserves some exploration, too.
For more advice on making the most out of a trip to the area, check out the suggested itineraries on the Visit Whidbey and Camano website.