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Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

The Eco-Traveler

Aqaba: A Must See in the Middle East

The charming port city of Aqaba in southern Jordan is a must for anyone travelling through the region. It’s located on the northern corner of the Red Sea where Jordan, Israel and Egypt converge. The city itself is quaint and inviting. It’s location on the northern tip of the sea offers some incredible diving not to be found elsewhere in the Red Sea. And it offers easy access to several travel destinations in Jordan as well as entrance to Israel and Egypt. 
The port of Aqaba is located approximately ten miles south of the city proper. This allows for Aqaba to have the benefits of being a port without the marred skyline or oil infused bay that usually accompanies a port city. There is a lovely promenade for walking along the sea which runs south from one of the town’s central squares. This is a focal point of town, with festivals and gatherings held here. In this bustling seaside center you can find cafes and hookah bars, with families and tourists wandering the area in the evenings.
Following the waterfront to the north, the promenade gives way to a coastal road lined by shops and restaurants. Some excellent fare can be found here including falafel, shawerma, and kebabs. The restaurants don’t look like much on the outside, but once inside the smells more than make up for their appearance.
Moving into the city center, shops abound along the main streets. You can find clothing, shoes, liquor, and an abundance of nuts and spices. Visiting the tourist shops is worthwhile as you can find popular Dead Sea products, from healing bath salts to skin rejuvenating mud packs, for a fraction of the price you would pay in the States.
After working your way through the shops, you come to the city park. This is a beautifully laid out conglomeration of greenery in a region that tends to be arid. In fact, due to Aqaba’s access to the Red Sea, the entire city appears as a welcoming oasis to the traveler coming from the inland regions. From the park, the main road splits north and south with many of the city’s hotels lining the street. If you can’t find your hotel at first, just ask. With shops at street level and the hotels taking the upper floors, the entrances can be tricky to find. Fortunately, the locals are very friendly and tend to be more than willing to help a lost tourist.
If you are looking for beach time, you will need to head south. The local beach isn’t very nice, and you wouldn’t want to wear a bikini there anyway as it would be horribly offensive to the city’s residents. Aqaba is largely a tourist town, but remember to dress according to their Muslim culture. For the beach-goer, several high end hotels have staked out claims on the gorgeous sandy beaches about fifteen to twenty miles south of town. As these are private beaches, it is perfectly acceptable to work on your tans.

Also, some excellent diving can be found here. In my experience, the house reefs aren’t worth your time unless you’re just getting certified. More advanced divers will want to check out the wrecks off shore and head down to the Saudi Border dive site. This particular site is one of my favorites. Aside from the perfunctory joke of bringing your passport in case you get lost (the entrance to the site is less than a mile from Saudi Arabia, hence the name), the dive has some of the most unusual coral I have ever seen. What look like giant cabbage patches in purple and green line the bottom of the sea. This far south, the waters are crystal clear and no muck from the city or port interferes with the sea life. I also came across some pretty interesting critters, alongside some of the largest clams I’ve ever seen.
When you’ve had your fill of city, sun, and surf, book a trip into the desert. There are two great tourist destinations within just a few hours of Aqaba. Many outfits will run trips that take you to both locations, or you can choose to just see one or the other, depending on time. If you only have enough time for one excursion, be sure to take a trip to Wadi Musa, the modern day town that is the staging area for trips into Petra.
The ancient city of Petra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven New Wonders of the World. It was built around 2,000 years ago by the Nabataean civilization. As most of the tombs and building were carved directly out of the sandstone cliffs surrounding the town, they are in shockingly near-perfect condition. The structures have been well preserved and look much today as they did when the Nabataeans inhabited the valley. Plan on spending at least one full day devoted to walking the city as some of the most impressive tombs are quite a distance from the city center.
With more time at your disposal, or for those more interested in camping and climbing than ancient cities, be sure to spend a night in Wadi Rum. Known for its rock climbing, Wadi Rum is a great place to spend an afternoon, followed by dinner and a campout under the starry sky. With no lights of civilization to dim the view, the night sky above the valley is excellent for stargazing.
When your time in Aqaba is over, moving on is quite simple. You have the option of driving or flying to Amman, from which you can visit the Dead Sea, fly to a multitude of international destinations, or take a few days to see the sights of Jordan’s capital city. You can also cross the land border from Aqaba into Eliat, Israel. Be careful though, once that Israeli stamp goes in your passport, most Arab countries will deny you a visa. If you want to visit Israel without the stigma, go north and use the King Hussein bridge where the border guards are more willing to stamp a piece of paper rather than your official documentation. Want to avoid the hassle? Take the ferry from Aqaba port to Nuweiba, Egypt, from where you can take advantage of everything the Sinai peninsula has to offer.
The next time you find yourself in the Middle East, be sure to make Aqaba a required stop on your itinerary.



The Eco-Traveler

Through The Eco-Traveler blog, Andrea Shearer shares her experiences of international adventure travel, volunteering and SCUBA diving with a commitment to protecting our environment. In the next few months, Andrea will bring her blog closer to home while exploring the natural environment and adventure activities the Midwest has to offer, and will go international again with a volunteer expedition to Nicaragua over the winter holidays. You can reach her at askandrea@ymail.com.