‘Julia’ tells the story of television’s ‘French Chef’

Above: Julia Child is the subject of the documentary feature "Julia," which opens Friday the Magic Lantern. (Photo/Sony Pictures Classics)

One of the funniest “Saturday Night Live” skits ever was a satirical look at the television chef Julia Child.

Dan Aykroyd played Child, dressed in drag and affecting Child’s high-pitched voice, preparing to debone a chicken (“Make sure to save the liver!”). When she accidentally cuts herself, prop blood spews from her hand.

Aykroyd keeps up Child’s typical upbeat attitude even as she finally faints from blood loss.

Yeah, I know. SNL humor has always been an acquired taste.

Anyway, I bring up Julia Child because a documentary feature titled “Julia” is scheduled to open Friday at the Magic Lantern Theatre. Co-directed by Julie Cohen and Betsy West, the film is a look not just at Child’s life but a study of her lasting influence.

And it’s attracting reviews that are as delicious as a Gordon Ramsay Crème Brulee.

Moira MacDonald of the Seattle Times wrote, “ ‘Julia’ is full of irresistible clips and interviews with its subject, trilling and burbling with her trademark enthusiasm, reminding her viewers that anything was possible and that mistakes are how cooks learn.”

Emily Heil of the Washington Post wrote, “A documentary that examines Child's life and influence on American cuisine and culture, goes down like a sweet crepe Suzette, and thankfully does little to complicate a lifelong fan's feelings.”

Robert Abele of the Los Angeles Times wrote, “As breezy primers go in a life that's as full as it gets, this collection of the archival and the anecdotal, with the occasional preparing of dishes as mouth-watering interludes, is decidedly more feast than fast food.”

One moviegoing hint: Go on an empty stomach. Post-movie eating will be that much better.