‘Apple Cookbook’ an autumn favorite

‘THE APPLE COOKBOOK’ BY OLWEN WOODIER (STOREY PUBLISHING, $14.95)

Quick look: The third edition of this love letter to all things apple offers a modern feel, updated information and 125 recipes – including 30 new ones – for preparing this emblem of autumn’s bounty.

What’s inside: Crisp and sweet but delicious in both savory dishes as well as desserts, apples are a September staple – much like this guide. First published in 1984 and revised in 2001, the latest version sports an updated look, new photographs and classic as well as more trendy recipes – Faro with Mushrooms, Onion and Apple, for example.

Modestly priced and packed with ways to prepare apples, the 240-page, softcover cookbook provides tips for storing apples, when and how to pick them as well as profiles of apple growers. Its eight chapters are organized by meal type, including desserts, preserving, breakfasts and breads, drinks and snacks, and salads and sides. There’s a guide to popular varieties in the back of the book, offering descriptions and best uses. The introduction to apples in front makes mention of one of Washington state’s own exclusive varieties: Lady Alice. Name for Alice Zirkle, cofounder of Rainier Fruit Co., the apple’s exclusive supplier, the variety was discovered in 1978 in Gleed, outside of Yakima.

Each recipe is topped with a short vignette. Look for Apple-Cheddar Crepes, Apple Doughnuts, Apple Eggnog, Unsweetened Applesauce, Pork Chops with Apple Cream Sauce, Beef and Apple Deep-Dish Pie, Applesauce Gingerbread, Calvados and Cider Soufflé, Apple Butter and a host of salads.

A food writer and farmer, author Olwen Woodier offers cooking classes on her farm in Leesburg, Virginia. Her work has appeared in the New York Times, Gourmet, Woman’s Day and Family Circle, and she’s the author of six cookbooks.

One the Web: http://www.glenfarmcookery.com/.

What’s not: While there are many vibrant images of apples – on trees, in bins, sliced open on cutting boards – most recipes aren’t accompanied by photographs.

Pork Tenderloin Stuffed with Apples

This recipe is a favorite of Jim Law of Linden Vineyards. You can replace the butter with olive oil, but the flavor will not be quite as rich. The stuffing can also be used in split boneless chicken breasts, which you would bake for only 20 to 25 minutes.

For the pork

1 pork tenderloin (about 1 1/2 pounds)

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

2 medium apples (Jonagold, Stayman, Winesap, Fuji), peeled if desired, cored, and thinly sliced

1 medium white onion, chopped

1 cup fresh bread crumbs, made by processing 2 large slices stale bread

1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram

1/2 teaspoon dried savory

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon olive oil, plus more if needed

For the glaze

4 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon brown mustard

Split the tenderloin almost in half lengthwise. Place it between two sheets of wax paper and pound it to about ½ inch thick.

Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the apples and onion and sauté until lightly browned and soft, about 5 minutes. Add the bread crumbs, marjoram and savory, and toss with the apple mixture until moistened through. Remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Season the inside of the tenderloin with the salt and pepper and spread the apple stuffing over the surface.

Roll the tenderloin lengthwise and tie with kitchen string. Return the skillet to medium heat. Add the teaspoon of oil and brown the pork on all sides, drizzling in a little more oil if necessary. Place in a baking dish.

Pour the glaze over the tenderloin and bake for 45 minutes, basting with the glaze 3 or 4 times. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Chicken & Apple Gyros with Tzatziki

This is a great way to finish off leftover roasted or grilled chicken. (I usually grill two extra pieces so that I do have leftovers.) If you are feeling lazy or tired, don’t bother to cook the onion and bell pepper. Leave them raw and serve with the cold chicken as a salad in a pocket of bread or wrapped in a flour tortilla.

For the gyros

2 medium sweet-tart apples (Jonathan, Jonagold, Stayman, Fuji), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced or diced

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium sweet onion, thinly sliced

1 bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, thinly sliced

1 to 2 jalapeno peppers, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced crosswise

2 cooked chicken thighs or chicken breasts, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 pita breads or flour tortillas, heated

Sriracha for serving (optional)

For the tzatziki

1 cup low-fat Greek yogurt

2 garlic cloves, finely minced

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into tiny dice

2 sprigs fresh dill or fennel fronds, finely snipped

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a medium bowl, toss the apple slices with the lemon juice and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and jalapenos, and sauté until the vegetables are lightly cooked, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chicken and salt and pepper to taste and cook for 5 minutes, or until the chicken is thoroughly heated.

To make the tzatziki, stir together the yogurt, garlic, cucumber, and dill in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Stack the pita breads or tortillas, wrap in a damp paper towel, and heat in the microwave for 1 minute. Alternatively, wrap the stack in aluminum foil and heat in a skillet over low heat for 2 minutes, turning at 1 minute. Slice pitas in half.

Spoon the chicken mixture equally into halved pita bread pockets or down the center of the flour tortillas. Top with the reserved apple pieces and spoonfuls of tzatziki. If using tortillas, fold up one side for the bottom end and then roll them up burrito-style. Serve with Sriracha, if desired.