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Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Find reasons behind damp basement

Gene Austin McClatchy-Tribune

Q. We are remodeling our basement, which gets quite damp. We use a dehumidifier and plan to coat the walls with waterproofing paint. Is there a more efficient way to keep the space dry than a dehumidifier?

A. Dehumidifiers are standard equipment in many damp basements, but often aren’t much help in cold weather, when most dehumidifiers are much less efficient. Still, I would keep the dehumidifier handy as one tool for relieving basement dampness.

Coating the walls with waterproof paint will help reduce moisture seepage through the walls, and should contribute significantly to a drier space. However, there are still several possible weak points that you should try to correct.

One of these is to make sure your rain gutters are kept clean and are operating effectively. Many damp or wet basements can be traced directly to overflowing or leaking gutters that dump water near the foundation, where it works its way into the basement.

Another possible weak point is the grading around your house; if it slopes toward the building, it will let rain water accumulate near the foundation. Regrading is a good option if your soil has the wrong slope.

Also check the joint of the walls and floor. Gaps in this area are a common entry point for basement water.

The joint can sometimes be sealed with hydraulic cement, a fast-drying, waterproof cement sold at home centers under the brand name Fast Plug. You should also use this product to patch any cracks or holes in the wall before painting.

Q. The lacquer coating on my brass entry-door handle is worn and looks unsightly. How can I remove the lacquer so I can polish the brass?

A. The fastest way to remove the lacquer is to coat the brass with a paste-type paint-and- varnish remover containing methylene chloride.

Methylene chloride is considered a health hazard if the vapors are breathed, but since you are working outdoors and the object is small there shouldn’t be excessive danger. If you prefer a “safe” paint-and-varnish remover, it will take longer to soften the lacquer so it can be wiped off with paper towels.

After the stripper treatment, clean the brass with warm, soapy water and let it dry. You can then polish the brass with any good brass polish.

Keep in mind that, without a lacquer coating, the brass will tarnish again before long. You can eliminate tarnishing by applying a fresh coat of lacquer, using a can of spray lacquer.

Q. I have an old sink and faucets in my bathroom, and the faucets were dripping a lot. A plumber told me I need a new sink and faucets, but this sink is in good condition and I’d like to keep it. The plumber repaired the faucets and the dripping stopped. Can the faucets be repaired again if they resume dripping?

A. You apparently have old, washer-type faucets. If only new washers or packing (a material packed around the stem) are needed, these faucets can be repaired any number of times.

However, if metal parts become worn, it is often difficult or impossible to find replacement parts. It might also be difficult to find modern, washerless faucets to fit your old sink, which is probably why the plumber suggested a new sink as well as faucets.

Questions and comments should be e-mailed to Gene Austin at doit861@aol.com. Send regular mail for Gene Austin to 1730 Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell, PA 19422.