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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

The Eco-Traveler

The Iraqi Job

The mention of Iraq tends to bring to mind bombings, warring militaries and religious factions, fighting over oil and a war-torn countryside.
But that's not all Iraq has to offer.
What we commonly don't hear about are the people of Iraq. There are several sub-cultures living in this Middle Eastern country: Arabs, Turks and Kurds. While the vast majority of these three populations are Muslim and share a common god, Shiite and Sunni Arabs identify more closely with each other and the Turks than they do with the Kurds. Some of you might remember that the Kurds received the brunt of Saddam's genocidal conquest while he was in power, and you're probably familiar with them now because of the politicking over the oil-rich town of Kirkuk, which may or may not lie within Kurdistan's boundaries.
Iraqi Kurdistan is a regional governate unto itself, with its own government, people and language. Further, Kurdistani people stretch over four countries: Syria, Iran, Iraq and Turkey. Iraqi Kurdistan is in the northern region of Iraq; mountainous, beautiful and full of life. Years after Saddam Hussein's reign of terror over the people of Iraqi Kurdistan, they stand tall and are rebuilding their towns and lives.
Considering what they have gone through, one couldn't blame them for being reticent and stand-offish. Nearly every single Kurdish resident has lost a brother, sister, mother, father or child to bigoted violence. And yet, as a group, they are some of the most generous, sincere, hospitable people one can hope to meet. While some of them live well off of income from the oil industry, many of them have nothing. It doesn't matter- they are resilient and intent on rebuilding their country. Rich and poor live side by side, struggling to recreate what they had before Hussein and improving their cities, bringing back the prosperity of years before.
I spent last year living and working in Erbil, the capital city of Iraqi Kurdistan. During my time there, I met many Kurds who showed me what "forgive and forget" really means. While they constantly feel the pain of their lost loved ones, there isn't the hatred towards their Iraqi Arab neighbors one might expect. Rather, they want to live and let live, and show respect to everyone. It was an amazing experience I won't quickly forget.
While there, I was also introduced to a lovely family whom asked me to tutor their children. I've been invited back to help the students get ready for their final exams, and tomorrow I'm heading back to Kurdistan.
I don't know how often I will have access to the internet (even when it's "working" it's not always functioning), and so my posts over the next couple of months will likely be sporadic. I will continue to post about world travel, green ideas and volunteer opportunities, but I also want to pass on stories of what life is like for the people of Iraqi Kurdistan. There will likely be sad stories of loss, but I am also hoping to find and share stories of their ingenuity and strong spirit.
I want people to know there is more to Iraq than oil and war.



The Eco-Traveler

Through The Eco-Traveler blog, Andrea Shearer shares her experiences of international adventure travel, volunteering and SCUBA diving with a commitment to protecting our environment. In the next few months, Andrea will bring her blog closer to home while exploring the natural environment and adventure activities the Midwest has to offer, and will go international again with a volunteer expedition to Nicaragua over the winter holidays. You can reach her at askandrea@ymail.com.